SPECTATOR WINE CLUB
New white Australia policy
Auberon Waugh
Berri Estates and Renmano are an Upwardly mobile consolidate from the Riverlands area of South Australia, who have recently been winning gold medals in the highly competitive Australian states. Bern's dry SemiHoe) is lighter than some with a bit of spritz and more of a sauvignon taste than anything else, but with none of the sharpness which can spoil sauvignon. I found it nice and fruity, and ideal as a summer aperitif at £3.66 although one of the panel wrote: 'spicy, tongue-prickling, strong enough to go with monkfish a 1 amoricain.' Everybody liked it, but it was number 2, the Berri Muscat a Petits Grains, which excited the gasps of surprise. No doubt most readers have had a brief craze for Alsatian dry muscats at some stage. Mine was about 12 years ago. This example is ten times better than any alsatian I have tasted — sensationally grapy yet dry with the muscatel taste Wonderfully preserved. If it were sweet I might describe it as a tart's tipple, but 'dry tart'S tipple' does not sound very nice. Everybody raved about it, and one of the Panel, a literary agent, opined that Kings- ley Amis would love it. There can be no higher praise. The Muscat(2) also works out at £3.66 the bottle and is guaranteed to be spectacularly successful as an aperitif. Much healthier than gin and tonic, too. Next the Chardonnay(3), slightly more expensive at £4.08. Punters may be con- ditioned to my raving about these Austra- lian chardonnays by now, but this is a truly bnlhant, creamy example with masses of chardonnay fruit and a touch of spicy German oak to explain the extra 42p on the price. Acidity is slightly lower than I would have expected on a wine as young as this (always remembering that the Austra- lian vintage time is our early spring), and I suppose it may get gluey after two or three Years, but it is clean, full and oaky for drinking this summer and will be even fuller and fruitier next summer. It has none of the waxiness which sometimes comes with highly concentrated colonial chardon- nays. Any grower in Puligny Montrachet would be happy to offer it at £14 the bottle.
People will think I am mad to offer an Australian Sauvignon(4) at £6.02 the bottle, especially as it means excluding a third red, and I don't suppose many will even think of buying it. My only excuse is that it is a truly remarkable example, with honey coming on top of gooseberry leaves. For those prepared to believe that the sauvig- non grape can do better than it does on the Loire, or at St Bris in northern Burgundy, I offer this marvellously balanced example of a seriously good white wine.
Of the two reds, the Berri Cabernet- Shiraz(5) at £3.60 delivered (I notice that Tesco is offering it at £3.99 collected) will probably be better in six months' time. It has quite a bit of tannin and a preponder- antly syrah fruit. It is not a pleasant experience to drink without food, but it improves with every mouthful of a meal and I should judge it a stayer. It might be a good idea to decant it several hours before drinking.
Finally, the Renmano Chairman's Selec- tion Hermitage 1984(6) won universal ap- plause for its freshness and fruitiness com- bined with a weight which takes it more than halfway towards Penfold's famous Grange Hermitage, unmistakably one of the great wines of the world. At £4.36, we all judged it a bargain.
A sample case of two of each is available at the same prices, costing £50.76. I hope I have left enough time for those wishing to re-order whatever they choose from the tasting case. Anybody doing so should make it plain that they are ordering from the Spectator Wine Club offer, as these are special prices and otherwise they may find themselves paying considerably more, with delivery charges on top.
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