CAPTAIN WILBRAHAM'S TRAVELS IN PERSIA AND

CAUCASUS.

CAPTAIN WILBRAHAM appears to have been one of the English officers employed at the court of Tehran in disciplining the army

of Persia. On the determination of the Shah to undertake the expedition against IIerat, in defiance of the advice of our Ambas- sador, his occupation was of course suspended; and lie employed his enforced leisure in two tours, one to Georgia, another into the province of Mazanderan on the shores of the Caspian Sea. His earlier Georgian route was along the common high-road from Tehran to Tiflis. At this capital of Russia's Caucasian pro- vinces, Captain WinnnAmm found himself an object of mislike, as the Emperor was shortly expected on a tour of inspection : he therefore got out of the way, on an excursion to Petigorsky and Kislavodsky, two Russian Cheltenhams, at the foot of the Caucasian range—where the visitant, if he extend his rambles too Tar from the town, will very probably be carried off by the Circassians. The company, however, had vanished ; the baths were dull ; and the

Captain was getting weary, when a letter from an old schoolfellow, a Russian noble, recalled him to Tiflis in time to partake of the gayeties and see the sights which the Emperor's presence produced. When these and the neighbourhood were exhausted, Captain Wit^ BRAHAM rode to Erzeroum, through the heart of Georgia, by a route rarely if at all passed over by European travellers. From this city he returned to Persia through the defiles of Taurus, and the Northern part of Koorclistaun, by a road as little frequented ; pass- ing in his route the two curious inland lakes of Van and Urundah. The second journey of our traveller into Mazandcran had nothing peculiar in its route, or in its occurrences. The journals of Captain WILBRAHAM were not originally de- signed for publication, but for the amusement of his family : they were often written amid the companionship of his Oriental servants and cattle, at the end of a hard day's ride ; and the volume is pub- lished at the suggestion of his friends. He offers these circum- stances, and wintry weather, as an apology for the character aids matter; which would have been of a fuller kind had lie originally contemplated the ordeal of print. Unless, however, he had been prepared with thorough classical, historical, or scientific knowledge to direct his observations, and had ampler time and a more fitting season, we know not that his book would have been greatly im- proved. In a country little known, the more salient and striking points of character, scenery, landscape, habits, and costumes, have a sufficient general attraction ; and these are more lik0.1, truly conveyed by a man writing te ühev his mind of a vivid im- pression, than if he regularly sat down day after day to pack his note- book with materials for a volume. This probability is increased, when the writer, as in the case before us, is a man whom the acci- dents of military service have accustomed to various countries, and to the hardships of equestrian travelling, and who is more- over sufficiently familiar with the character of the people he jour- neys among to enter into their peculiarities. And for any thing deeper than the surface—for such an account of a people as Censaa has left of the ancient Gauls, or Mr. LANE (though a very long way from CAmAR) has given us of the modern Egyptians, not travel but residence is needed.

This principle is established by the work before us, so far as it goes; for the accounts of Persia, though incidental, are by far the most comprehensive. And from Captain Wir.imanam's description, the days of the empire are numbered. The Toorkmans have esta- blished a virtual independence ; the Afghans, with our connivance, have thrown off even a nominal submission ; Russia has shorn the Shah of his Caucasian provinces, and has her eye upon the Caspian; and the robber Koords, on the border lands of Turkey, will pro- bably, with Persia's growing weakness, extend their incursions, and devastate what they cannot govern. But all these losses are of less consequence in themselves, than as indicating a canker at the heart. The Government is feeble, its officers are tyrannical and cor- rupt; the finances are in embarrassment; the payments even to the troops irregular, and sometimes a year or more in arrear. The country is impoverished and depopulation going on ; the slender means of the nobles visibly declining, even during Captain WILBRA- HAM'S experience of the country ; and the court dependent, and moving at the instigation of whichever foreign power is most influen- tial for the time. Turk ey seems in a somewhat analogous condition ; and to suppose they can be saved by training their subjects Euro-

pean-fashion, is a dream. Anisox, indeed, with his wonted rhetoric, lays it down as, a law, that destruction must ensue when na- tional arms and ' modes of warfare are changed,—instancing the case of Tieroo : but, as is usual in that writer's philosophy, he confounds the effect with the cause. The will and the want to change, both arise from the conviction which defeat imparts to a

people, that their victors are better than themselves; and vanity and ignorance combined attribute thei-: beatings to the obvious and not the latent causes—courage, discipline, and physical and moral national characteristics. The change may perhaps hasten the catastrophe; as an attempt to strengthen decrepitude by gym. nastics would probably break up the constitution more rap213, but the necessity for the change is the fatal symptom—" a stronger than he cometh;" and the independent existence of Turkey and Persia are only preserved by the jealousies of the European powers, and the tolerable certainty that the booty they would yield would not pay the expenses of the fight.

Still, the extinction of Persia, though perhaps inevitable, will be a melancholy affair, happen when it may. The Persian name appears in the first dawn of authentic history, and is mixed up with most of the great events that have occurred upon our globe. Ana the people themselves—brave, enduring, and polite—hue a hold

upon the feelings, if not upon the judgment. As his Indian friend observed to CONOLLY, the Persians may be great rogues, but they are very pleasant fellows. Here is a sketch of a royal and clever nWUVWS sgjet, whom Captain WILBRAHAM fell in with on his route from Erzeroum.

" On the evening of the 8th of December I reached the village of Shishawan, the residence of Malek Kossim Miran, a son of the late Shah, whom I had constantly met during m,y short stay at Tabreez in the summer of 1836. At that time he adopted the Frank dress, and, instead of a handsome Persian, had transfigured himself into a raffish-looking European. I remember meetin. him at the ambassador's table in a blue surtout with large brass battens, coloured check-shirt, and a white cravat. In compliance with our eitmliteourisr,hliieue had doffed the lambskin-cap, and his shorn head certainly did not improw Mg appearance. He had taught himself French, witnhesotinwel.naissvisttiairiz firloisata at. lb renchwoman, who held the responsible situation of matron of, Royal's harem, and spoke that language fluently. tention learning English, and had persuaded nk. Merrick, an American missionary, to spend a iew months with him at Shisl.iawan. Mr. Merrick who had been sent to Persia with a of ascertaining what might be don:: to- wards the proly;;::itin ot the gospel among the l'Ilhomedans, had aceepted the Prince's invitation, with the double view of studying the Persian language mid.

Character. * * * * " Some years ago an edition of Voltaire's works chanced to fhll into his hands, and he became a disciple of that school of philosophy ; but the late Shah, alarmed at some of the opinions which he professed, ordered him to commit the volume to the flames. 'In do him justice, his conversation was decorous and sensible, and I was quite astonished at the rapid progress which he had =de in English, which he had only lately begun to study."

We formerly remarked that the decline of a national religion seeing to be a symptom of national decay ; and this is not wanting in Persia to strengthen other proofs.

HINTS TO MISSIONARIES.

It does not appear to me that any thing can be done, at the present time, towards the diffusion of Christianity among the Persians, although it is evident that many of their religious prejudices are giving way, and that the doctrines of the Prophet have loosened their hold upon the minds of all classes. In my opinion, it is not the bigotry of the Mahomedans which raises the chief ob. stack to the introduction of Christianity among them, but the deep and uni- versal corruption of morals which must be overcome before they can receive a religion which enjoins no much purity and self-denial. The Persians are very fond of entering into religions discussions with Europeans, and conduct them not only with great quickness of argument, but, not unfrequently, with muck apparent candour. A missionary should be thorough master of their language, and of his own subject, before he ventures to engage in a controversy in which, if foiled, his want of st:ecesa will be attributed to the weakness of his cause, uidr.f!t t his deficiency in advocating that cause. I have frequently heard Persians boast of having worsted in argument the well-known missionary Wolff.

RESTRICTION or THE PRESS AND FREEDOM OP SPEECH.

A lithographic press has been established of late years in Tehran, whirl:, in judicious hands, might be made productive of much good. Within the past year a newspaper Imes been printed in the capital, containing little beyond. a few extracts from Galignani on subjects of general information ; and sometimes, by the Haji's permission, a word or two on domestic occurrences,—such as the arrival or departure of an envoy, the conferring of knighthood upon some Per- sian officer, or such like matters. It is published once a month ; but it is not very regular.

I have often been astonished at the exceeding freedom of speech in which the Persians indulge when discussing the conduct of the Shah and his minis- ters, in the presence not only of their intimate friends, but of strangers aud servants. An Eastern despotism, although its acts may be, and sometimes are, arbitrary and tyrannical, has at least the advantage over the absolute govern- ments of the West, that it rarely takes notice of the opinions of its subjects. In Georgia, at a Russian party, I have heard the master of the house check the conversation in the most abrupt manlier, because the propriety of some unimportant measure of the government happened to be called in question by one of his guests.

EFFECTS OF IRRIGATION AND ITS ABSENCE.

I have heard it doubted by those who are fully competent to judge, whether the population of Persia is on the decrease. Numerous tracts of hind, it is true, are now deserted, which bear traces of former cut ivation ; but, on the other hand, in districts more removed from the main roads which traverse the country, new villages have sprung up. The destruction of a single aqueduct may oblige the inhabitants of a whole district to emigrate, while the opening of a new cannot gives instant birth to thriving villages. The effect of irriga- tion is almost magical : immediately adjoining the most barren tract may be seen rich vineyards and corn-fields, interspersed with orchards and walnut-trees of noble growth, which spring up wherever there is moisture with incredible rapidity beneath the vivifying rays of an Eastern sun. But still more rapid is thew decay when the stream is diverted from its channel, and one summer's drought suffices to efface the labour of years.

LINE OF MARCH OP A PERSIAN ARMY.

The route of a Persian regiment may be traced by deserted villages, unroofed houses, and devastations of the most wanton nature. Its march is more de- structive in its own country than would be that of a hostile force ; and the evil is daily increasing, since the long arrears of pay and absence of commis- sariat force the soldiers to supply their wants by plunder. Hard indeed is the lot of those whose villages he near the main road. Many, which a few years ago were rich and thriving, are now heaps of ruins. The invasion of an enemy might cause a temporary abandonment of house and home, but a visi- tation, at all times impending, drives the poor peasant to despair, and he seeks it refuge in remoter values. Many of these villages are surrounded by a wall, and might resist the efforts of the troops to force an entrance ; but, unless they belong to some man of influence, the fear of ulterior consequences deters them from so bald a measure. Often they bribe the commander to pass on to ao me other village, so that, between the proceeds of his plundering and these Do- ropositions for not plundering, he makes a profitable business of his march.

WHEEI,CARRIAGES IN PERSIA.

In riding through Casveen I saw a large number of clumsy carts, which had been manufactured in different towns, fo;the purpose of carrying the provisions for the army (to Herat); but, like most of the bright schemes of the Haji, thislaul failed when attempted to be put into practice. There are, as I have

i

before remarked, no roads n Persia, excepting such as have been made by the constant track of baggage-cattle; and When, after making a couple of hundred of these awkward carts, an experiment was made for one day's march out of Tehran, the greater number broke down by the way. The only wheel vehicles that accompanied the march of the royal camp, whoa I was with it in 1836, were a small phaeton belonging to the Russian ambassador, vho, having been wounded in his leg, was unable to ride' and a venerable cab, in which the Centre of the Universe was wont to travel Am- ster the road would permit, and about which 1 heard a good story from an Wish officer attached to the service of the Shah. One of the sons of the la:Prince Royal, Abbas Miran, in:mired of my informant whether the King of England had such a carriage 115 that, pointing to the old cab ; and, on being towered in the negative, appeared perfectly satisfied that no one but his royal brother could boast ofso splendid a vehicle.

OFFICIAL NEAVS.

We once inquired of one of the Gholams of the embassy, whether an sc- out which one of the King's couriers had just given was likely to be true. "Oh, no," answered the omit, "you must not believe a word of it. A. courier roast have something to tell by the way. You should hear what lies I tell when I am travelling."

Let us turn to Georgia, and the Russians ; and begin with a spe- cimen ef their reading.

The Fieach Consul is only allowed to receive the Journal des Debate on the condition of not showing it to any Russian subject. Whenever any article appears which is condemned in Petersburg, the guilty number is enclosed in ouiridgc-paper, and sealed with the seal of the ccir:arship, a sort of political quarantine. ihe Petersburg Gazette, a scanty fiftli sheet, containing no in- formation, is the only paper seen in Georgia. A'tliough 'Ellis contains so large an European population, it r-f.e,F..q no public library, nor indeed even a bookseller's shop. The only puhlicasio:Is that I saw exposed for sale were Russian dictionaries, and a history of the campaign in Turkey, published by authority. In only one of the many Louses that I was in (lid I see any symp- toms of a bookcase. Thus debarred from the only rational mode of employ- ingtheie time, it is no wonder that the Ros4m ofheers should fidl into those habits of gambling and dissipation so prevalent among them.

A RI:531AS EMPLOYE.

Now that I was fairly established ia Tiflis, I began to enter into the society of the place; and there were several ionises where I could always reckon on a good dinner anti a cordial welcome. In the evening, too, many were glad to see their friends ; and as the dinner hour was early and there were no public amusements in Tiflis, I often availed myself of this custom. Many of those whose houses I frequented were foreigners, who form a very large portion of the class of Russian employ6s. An adventurer, who styletchimself the Baron Dieskau, who bad the Impudence to pass himself off for an English Eche° among the Affghans, and the knavery to procure money in that character, ex- pressed himself desirous of making my acquaintance; an honour which tile- dined, knowing rather more about him than he reckoned upon. He is an offi- cer in the Russian service, into which he has been admitted since his doings in

noa. indeed, who has been in India, whatever may have been the cause of his quitting the country, is received by Baron Rosen into the Russian service.

NICHOLAS, AND A TRAIT OF DESPOTISM.

We were not long kept waiting : an inner door was thrown open and the Emperor entered, attended by the Governor-General, Count Orloff, General Alderberg, and half-a-dozen aides-do-camp. The boast of the Russians, that among a thousand men you would not fail to recognize the Emperor, is scarcely exaggerated. His figure is commanding and has countenance striking ; his height must be nearly six feet two, and his frame unites symmetry with strength ; his smile is peculiarly fascinatiig, but the high forehead, the short and curved upper Hp, and the expression of a rather small mouth, impart some- what of sternness to his features when in repose. His naturally tbir complexion is now bronzed by exposure to a Southern sun ; but the forehead, where the cap has sheltered it, is white as mantle. His blue eye is quick and expressive, and a small moustache adds to his soldier-like appearance. His Majesty wore the full dress of a general officer, distinguished only by his decorations. Pass- ing round the circle, he addressed a few words to each individual as Baron Rosen presented him ; and his milliner towards the Asiatics was peculiarly gracious. An Armenian officer served as interpreter. It soon mune to my turn to be presented. After remarking that I ought to have been at the cavalry review of Vosnesensk, the Emperor asked me several questions con- cerning the state of Persia, and mentioned his having seen the heir-apparent at Enron. Ile then made some observations on the recent accession of Queen Victoria; on which subject he referred me to Count Orloff, and passed on to my neighbour Souvoroff. On his name being announces! by the Governor- General, the Emperor immediately exclaimed that it dhl not please him to sec the grandson of the Prince Souvoroff Ithlisky in other Rusts a military uni- form, whereupon my friend had to kiss hands and to become a soldier lidera rolens. This struck Inc as rather an arbitrary mode of changing a man's pro- fession, especially when he ham for many years been following some other line, and has, perhaps, no inclination for a military life.

AN IMPERIAL DINNER.

At that hour I remit a large party assembled in the saloon—about forty or twe-and-forty in all—consisting of tbe principal Asiatic chiefs, the general

officers and colonels of regiments, and some officers of the civil service. The Emperor soon mitered, wearing the undress of a general officer. The new knight of St. Anne was introduced, and, according to form, the Emperor em- braced him ; but as the General was a little round man, the scene was some- what ludicrous. His Majesty asked me why 1 Ina not beets at the review that morning, and, on my answering that I had been present, lie expressed Isis re- gret et that 1 had not joined him. " I wonder," he said, " that I did not dis- tinguish your handsome uniform ; but, indeed," he added, lauehing, " place me before troops' and I have no longer eyes for any thing else. '"The usual whets were handed round the circle ; caviare, and anchovies, and brandy, and immediately afterwards dinner was announced. I remarked that the Russians of the old school adhered to the custom, while the trays passed untouched by the younger men. As I was movin,,, towards the banquetting chamber' in conversation with Besobrazolf, I met Count Orloff in search of me. He seated me between himself and Colonel Rauch, an officer in the Prussian ser- vice, who has accompanied the Emperor on his journies for several years. On the other side of Colonel Rauch sat the Emperor, while on the right of the Governor-General, who occupied the head of the table, were seated several of the natives of highest rank.

Except in regular towns and in certain districts, the power of

Russia seems very slight throughout the Caucasian provinces

This is the style in which the post travels— •

" Before us lay the fort of Vlitdikawkas, on the site of a more ancient castle. A large force is stationed here, whose only duty is to escort the post across the dangerous plain of the Kabarda. The heavy post, which arrives once a week from Petersburg, is guarded by a hundred men, and one, or sometimes two field-pieces ; the extra, or light post, which is also weekly, is escorted by a patrol of Cossacks, to which is generally added a detachment of infantry, one foot-soldier being more feared by the Circassians than a dozen Cossacks."

rums ON THE HIGH-ROAD.

Ardonskoi is one of those small Russian forts so common on the frontiers of Circassia, beyond the range of whose guns its inmates are not safe. Its shots- tion is isolated, and its sole use is to shelter the garrison which furnishes the escort. While the horses were feeding, and the escort being relieved, I strolled to the gate, and the sentry would hardly permit me to pass out. I wanted to walk round the little fort, but had not been five minutes without the gate, when several soldiers, with lanterns, came in search of ine. And this is the only road by which Russia communicates with the provinces of Georgia and Armenia.

As a specimen of Captain WILBRAHAM'S descriptive style, we will take an extract or two from his journey through Koordistan.

A KOORD ENCAMPMENT.

An "Eelyaut " encampment, its a cheerful and well-watered country, is one of the most picturesque and happiest scenes imaginable. A patriarchal sim- plicity stamps their manners and seems almost to realize the sweet pictures of the poet's Arcadia. Free as the air they breathe, they shift their goat's-hair tents from stream to spring, from valley to mountain, with the changing seasons, and look down with pity and contempt upon the "sitters in houses." Although Mahomedans, their women are unveiled, and they not only share the toils of their husbands and brothers, but sometimes emulate them in feats of horsemanship. Thouah rarely pretty, the glow of health and the good- humoured expression of these young Koordish maidens, supply the place of beauty, and their gay costume displays to great advantage their full round forms anal sunburnt features. Upon them devolve the labours of the dairy and the loom, while the youne men tend the flocks, or scour the country round in search of game. The Elders of the tribe enjoy the trite alum cum dignitate, seated in front of their huts, where they receive the passing stranger, and smoke with him the pipe of welcome. The black Koordish tent, supported by its many pales, is a very picturesque object ; and when they are grouped to- gether on the margin of some mountain stream, surrounded by their flocks and herds, they form a very pretty picture.

SUNSHINE NECESSARY IN THE EAST.

In the East the absence of the usual brilliant sunshine is a death-blow to all picturesque effect ; and the want of those comforts, which, with a cloudless sky above us, we scarcely miss, is then most strongly felt. The groups which so often attract our admiration when seated in every variety of picturesque at- titude upon their low balconies or terraced roofs, look wretched when huddled round a smouldering fire in the dark recess of a filthy stable ; and the slip, shod Turk, picking his way amid torrents of rain through heaps of mud, loses all that stateliness aud dignity which usually characterize his every motion.