SPECTATOR'S LIBRARY.

WitATZLs, Narrative of a Mhelon to Bokhara, in the years 1843-1845, to ascertain the Fate of Colonel Stoddart and Captain Conolly. By the Rev. Joseph Wolff; D.D., LL.D.

In two volumes Parker.

BIOGRAPHY,

Autobiography of Heinrich Zschokke. [Foreign Library.] Chapman and Hall.

DB. WOLFF'S MISSION TO 130KHARA.

b the essence of a book of travels is vivacious description and a sound judgment—a picture of that which is visible to the sense, with the con- clusions deduced from its observations by an intelligent mind—then is much of Dr. Wolff's Mission to Bokhara not to be called travels. On the contrary, it is of the nature of memoirs. The reverend missionary records the different friends he met or made, and the various compliments that were paid him by public functionaries, moved thereunto perhaps by the letters out of which Captain Chairman Grover had badgered the Foreign Office, or by private individuals from goodnatured polite- ness ; together with the epistles he wrote and received in the course of his journey, and translations of the Oriental documents having a reference to his mission. With such matters are mingled reminiscences of his former life or travels, digressions as to the state of Christianity, Mahometanism, Paganism, and the Jews, with memorandums of his own performance of divine service. And very often when he does record his own movements, they are little more than bald jottings. Nor was all of the 5,650 miles which Dr. Wolff passed over of a very remarkable character. Such is the progress of steam, that the journey from Southampton to Trebisond on the Black Sea, though 3,800 miles, is less inconvenient than a crowded steam-trip to Margate, bating the sea- sickness. The 1,300 miles from Trebisond to Meshed in Khorassan, where the power of Persia ceases, was without danger • but it is always fatiguing, from the absence of roads and accommodations, with the necessity of riding " tatar." The hardships were increased in Dr. Wolff's case, because he passed the bleak mountains of Armenia in the depth of winter, when men were perishing in the snow; and he could not ride. He wished to walk, but his friends protested against it; and he had a man to lead his horse over the mountains. As we hear nothing of his troubles from this source on his return, we infer that the rough-riding Asiatics have turned him out an equestrian.

From Meshed to Bokhara difficulties and dangers began. There was Toorkman desert, and the roving Toorkmans,—less troublesome now tikan they were some years since, when poor Conolly was robbed and maltreated by them, but still thieves and man-stealers. It happened, unluckily, that the chieftain to whom Dr. Wolff was given in charge by the Persian ruler at Meshed, was a greater rogue than the tribes from which he was engaged to defend the worthy missionary. However, Persia on one side, and Bokhara on the other, kept Dil Assa Khan from doing Much more "than trying it on" upon the Doctor's purse, and ineffectu- ally endeavouring to play the traitor, or rather ambassador on his own account, at Bokhara. In this Mahometan Oxford the risk of Dr. Wolff was, no doubt, very great, from the uncertainty of barbarian passion and Eastern caprice, which might be tempted in a moment to perpetrate a crime that it had made up its mind to avoid. But, without wishing in the slightest degree to underrate the courage or philanthropy of the excellent missionary, and believing that he was fully possessed with an idea of impending death, we suspect his real danger was inconsiderable, save from momentary rage. The Ameer seems to have a superstitious and mysterious dread impending over him on account of the deaths of Stoddart and Conolly. He has, for the first time, failed in expeditions against his neighbours, which he sets down as a judgment; he seems to have an idea that be has a blood-feud with Great Britain on his hands, without exactly knowing its nature or extent, or from what quarter the avenger is likely to come : and in this point of view the total silence of the British Government, whilst missives poured in from the Sultan, the Shah, and the Russian Ambassador, might have had its effect. The confidence and free speech of Dr. Wolff at first sight looks as if likely to provoke; but

Our indiscretion sometimes serves us well, When our deep plots do pall."

The Doctor's insignia and full canonicals, his entering in procession, and his subsequent denunciation of the Chief of Artillery, in reality Prime Minister, might have their effect among Asiatics, " perplexed in the extreme." He thus approached and entered Bokhara.

" I was dressed in full canonicals the entire distance from Mowr to Bokhara; being determined never to lose sight of my position as mullah, [priest,] on which alone my safety depended, I soon rceived. I also kept the Bible open in my hand: I felt my power was in the t ..k, and that its might would sustain me. The uncommon character of these proceedings attracted crowds from Shabr Islam to Bokhara; all which was favourable to me; since if I was doomed to death, it would be widely known, and the consequences might be even serious to the Ameer himself, of interfering with a sacred character, armed with the Book of Mouse, ,[Moses,] and David, and Jesus, protected by the word of the Khaleefa of Mowr, supported by the Sultan, the Shah of Persia, the Russian Ambassador, the Assaff- ood-Dowla, both by word and letters, and the popular principle among the Mus- sulmans, as testified on my route in shouts of Selaam Aleikoom," Peace be

vrithyon.'" • •

" My villain escort, Dil Assa Khan, then came up to me and said, ' You ought to enter Bokhara dressed as a poor man.' I replied, Villain, liar, and man- seller, (for strong terms alone are effective in the East,) leave me. The Assaff- ood-Dowla will assuredly put you to death when we reach Meshed.' Dil Assa Khan turned deadly pale. Shouts of Selaarn Aleikoom,' from thousands, rang upon my ear. It was a most astonishing sight: people from the roofs of the houses, the Nogay Tatars of Russia, the Cassacks and Girghese from the deserts, the Tartar from Yarkand or Chinese Tartary, the merchant of Caahmeer, the Ser- -kerdelia or Grandees of the King on horseback, the Affghauns, the numerous water-carriers, stopped still and looked at roe; Jews with their little caps, the distinguishing of the Jews of Bokhara; the inhabitants of Khokand politely killing at me; and the mullahs from Chekaipoor and Sinde looking at me and sayin_g, ' Inglese Seib '• veiled women screaming to each other, Englees Eljee, English Ambs.esdor'; 'others coming by them and saying, ' He is not an Eljee, but the Grand Derveesh, Derveesh Kelaun, of Englistaun.'" THE REORPTION.

Before we were carried to our assigned quarters, we were brought what they emphatically call " hula," up to the palace of the King. This is situated on a lofty eminence. When we reached it, the Serkerdeha, f. e. the Grandees of the Empire, were just leaving it, riding upon horseback. The people crowded in masses on me, demanding, " What book have you in your hand?" I replied, " The Towrat-e-Moosa, (Laws of Moses,) the Saboor-e Dawood, (Psalms of David,) and the Anjeel-e-Esau, (Gospel of Christ,) and the Prophecies of Daniel, Isaiah, Ezekiel, Jeremiah," &c. Devoutly did those poor unenlightened souls touch the Book. At the entrance of the palace-gate, we were ordered to dis- mount from our horses. Only the Grandees of the Empire, and Ambassadors of the Sultan of Constantinople, of the Shah of Persia, should they come to Bokhara, are permitted to enter the palace-gates on horseback: no Christian, Heathen, or any other ambassador, is allowed that privilege. Singular to say, however, 1 was allowed this privilege at my audience of leave prior to my departure from Bokhara. Previous to our entrance, one of his Majesty's Makhrams appeared before me and said, " His Majesty condescends to ask whether you would be ready to sub- mit to the mode of beldam, (for Stoddart Saib refused, and drew his sword.)" asked, " In what does the Selaam consist ?" He replied, "You are placed before his Majesty, who will sit upon the Bala Hanah, (from whence Balkan is derived); and the Shekawl (Minister of Foreign Affairs) will take hold of your shoulders, and you must stroke your beard three times, and three times bow, saying at each time, Allah Akbar, Allah Akbar, Allah Akbar,'—' God is the greatest, God is the greatest, God is the greatest'; Salaarnat Padishah,'—' Peace to the King.' " On being asked if I would do so three times, I said, " Thirty times, if necessary" Entering the gate, we were desired to sit down upon a stone seat; and after a few minutes delay, were ordered to send up our letters. After the letters were sent up, we were brought before the King, Dil Assa Khan and myself. His Majesty was seated in the balcony of his palace, looking down upon us; thousands of people in the distance. All eyes were bent on me, to see if I would submit to the etiquette. When the Shekawl took hold of my shoulders, I not only submitted to his doing so to me three times, but I bowed re- peatedly, and exclaimed unceasingly, Peace to the King," until his Majesty burst into a fit of laughter; and of course all the rest standing around us. His Majesty said, " Enough, enough, enough." We were then ordered to retire. The Shekawl, an officer who answers to our Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, then assured use that his Majesty had smiled upon me, and exclaimed, " What an extraordinary man this Englishman is, in his eyes, and his dress, and the Book in his hand."

The reported particulars of the deaths of Stoddart and Conolly do not differ from those already before the public ; but in troth the informa- tion on this point is vague. The very time of their execution is uncertain; Dr. Wolff cannot positively make out whether it was in 1842 or 1843. The King and his Minister both fix 1843 ; but in reckoning it by the months on his beads, the Minister carried it back to 1842. The primary cause of offence seems to have been the imprudence of Stoddart in be- having with rough rudeness on more than one occasion; for which he was imprisoned. To procure liberty, he is said to have turned Mussul- man, and then relapsed; which by Mahometan law is death. According to Abdul Samut Khan, the Chief of Artillery, in the following narrative to Dr. Wolff, the after incidents were in this wise-

" At last it was agreed that he should write to England, to be acknowledged as the accredited agent of Great Britain at the Court of Bokhara, and that the King of Bokhara should be the acknowledged Sovereign of Turkistan, &e.; and Colonel Stoddart promised that in four months an answer should arrive from the Government of England. Though at his (Stoddart's) request,japar-khanas (post-houses) were established from Bokhara to Sarakhs which did not exist either at Bokhara or in the land of Turkistanfrom the time of Afrasiab, four- teen months elapsed and no answer arrived. During the time that Colonel Stod- dart was at Bokhara, Captain Conolly went from Organtsh (Eliva) to Kho- kand; where he stopped a considerable time, exciting both countries to wage war against the Ameer of Bokhara. Heat last arrived at Bokhara,. announcing him- self as a British agent, without having any letters from the British Government; and whatever Colonel Stoddart had agreed to he upset, announcing to the King of Bokhara that the British Government would never interfere with the affairs of Turkistan; and all that Colonel Stoddart had agreed to went for nothing. Thus it was clear that Colonel Stoddart was a liar. During the stay of Conolly and Stoddart, they took every opportunity of despatching, in the most stealthy manner, letters to Cahill; and on this account his Majesty became displeased; and both Captain Conolly and Colonel Stoddart were brought, with their hands tied, behind the Ark, (palace of the King,) in presence of Makhram Sas.dat; when Colonel Stoddart and Captain Conolly kissed each other, and Colonel Stodclart said to Saaflat, Tell the Ameer that I die a disbeliever in Muhammed, but a believer in Jesus; that I am a Christian, and a Christian I die.' And Conolly said, Stod- dart, we shall see each other in Paradise, (Behesht,) near Jesus.' Then Saadat gave the order to cut off first the head of Stoddart, which was done; and in the same manner the head of Conolly was cut off.

" W. I thought strangling was the mode of killing at Bokhara.

" N. Strangling was formerly used; but the King of Bokhara said, ' Strangling gives more pain, and the rascally Khan of Khiva strangles people; and therefore, out of mercy, I command the heads of evil-doers to be cut off with a common knife.' "

The detention of Dr. Wolff at Bokhara—his often, as we incline to think, groundless fears as to his danger—his virulent abuse of Abdul Samut Khan to his face, upon suspicions which do not really seem to be proved—his proposal (in order to get away) that the Ameer should send an ambassador to England, which was actually done, and the envoy befooled as far as Constantinople, if not farther, to the manifest danger of any other travellers or agent that should venture into Bokhara—may be read at large in the volumes ; and amusing enough it all is. Nor are the passages of self-biography wanting in en- tertainment, from the obvious bonhommie and good faith of the reverend man —as if a tinge of Asiatic simplicity were lingering in his Hebrew blood. What there is, too, of real travels—perhaps one-third of the vo- lumes—is very good of its kind. Graphic description, scientific observa- tion, or high-wrought narrative of scenes of novelty, wildness, or danger, will not be found ; but Dr. Wolff has qualities that have enabled him to present a transcript of Asiatic characteristics. His extensive knowledge of the Oriental languages, his long experience of the people in his former travels, his acquaintance with the Jews, and the éclat that attended his coming, as well as his character of " mullah," brought him into contact with vast numbers of persons. It may be objected, that with such op- portunities Dr. Wolff ought to have written a better book : and this is doubtless the fact; but his very literalness secures a certain species of truth, especially in conjunction with his Oriental cast of mind. The novelty, too, of the field must also be considered: a rare weed is more prized than a common flower.

JEWISH TEST OF RELIGION.

The Jews of Bokhara have taken courage and called on me. The name of Sir Moses Montefiore, and the rumour of his exertions for the benefit of the Jewish nation, have reached their ears and those of their brethren in Samarcand, Balkh, Khokand, and fluent. And Sir Moses Montefiore will be surprised to learn that his exertions in behalf of the Jews have drawn the attention of the Jews in those distant regions to the doctrines of Christianity : for many Jews, when at Bokhara, observed to me that the religion of the Gentiles in England must absolutely be better than that of Mohammed, as the proceedings of Sir Moses Montefiore, in behalf of the Jews, are not only tolerated, but also countenanced, supported, recommended, and eulogized. And about Rothschild they say, that in a country where one can so openly make a display of one's property, the religion of that nation must be better.

THE FOUR GRAND VIZIERS OF ENGLAND.

The Ameer wished another day to have the names of four grand Viziers, and twelve little Viziers of England, and the forty-two Elders. I gave to his Majesty a list of the names of the present Ministry; when the Makhram returned in a fury, and said that his Majesty had found me out to be a liar, for the four ggrrand Viziers, according to Colonel Stoddart's account, were Laard Malebume,

Jean Rawsall, Laard Malegraave, Seere Jaane Habehaase. I was brought in to the King, and then had to give a complete idea of the constitution of England; which, though his Majesty could not understand it fully, yet I convinced him that my list might be true also, especially as I was able to tell him the names of the Whig Administration.

A SCEPTIC IN BOICHARA.

At this time Muhammed Bakher Nakash, i. e. the painter, formerly in the service of Conolly, loudly exclaimed in a bath, " The Frankee are by far better than the Mussulmauns. Muhammed was no prophet. He was a cruel tyrant, and thus are all his followers. There is one God, but no prophet does exist." He was brought before the Sheikh Islam, and questioned about his public declaration. Sheikh al-Islam (to Muhammed iakher.) Is it true that you have made such a declaration?

Mohammed Bakker. Yes! I have loudly proclaimed that there is no prophet. 8k. Do you believe, perhaps, that Jesus is a prophet?

M.B. No.

Sh. Mullah Youssuf Wolff does not agree with you; for he believes that Jesus is not only a prophet, but he calls him also the Son of God. N.B. I believe no prophet: but Jesus was a better man than Mohammed, and the followers of Jesus are better than the followers of Mohammed.

Muhammed Bakher was then sent to prison and flogged, but without any use.

USE OF HEBREW.

Every moment a spy from the King came to ask me what I did. The Jews, however, had the courage to come; and I advised them to come when the King's Makhrams were with me; when each of us looked in a Hebrew Bible, as if we were reading, and thus carried on our conversation in Hebrew in the presence of the Usbecks, who all the time believed that we were reading the book by turn, whilst I learnt every particular of the conduct of the King and the Nayeb towards Stoddart and Conolly, particulars of the death of the latter, and of the licentious and tyrannical conduct of the King. Conversations not political we carried on in Persian.

A PERSIAN HUSBAND.

We thus proceeded, by order of the King, to Jesman-Doo. Mohammed Taki the astrologer from Hermit, who came with Abbas Kouli Khan from Persia, for the purpose of getting by the Shah's influence with the Ameer, his wife, who had been made a slave of by the Turkomauns' both recovered her, and, besides this received one hundred ducats from the Ameer. When he came to the garden of Jesman-Doo, to our surprise, without his wife, Abbas Kouli Khan asked him " Where is your wife?" He replied, " I have looked in the stars for two or three nights successively, and seen one star with a black tail, from which I perceived that misery is entailed upon her; and therefore I have resold,her for forty ducats and a beautiful high-bosomed slave girl, only seventeen." I never saw in my life a man so incensed as Abbas Kouli Khan. He rose from the ground, cast away his galyoon with such violence that it broke to pieces, and said, God burn you and your stars ! You rascal, you did not look on the stars, but on the money and the beauty of the young girl. I spit in your beard."

A TRUE HIT.

An Affghaun Seyd entered the garden, and said, "Aye, you Kafir! have you succeeded in cheating the Ameer, so that he let you go? If he had only given you into my hands, I would soon have made away with you by my javelin." Abbas Kouli Khan said to him, " Go, and leave the Frankee alone; he is a derveesh." " A derveesh !" he sneeringly replied, " I know these Frankee derveeshes—I know these English derveeshes. They go into a country, spy out mountains and vallies, seas, and rivers; find out a convenient edit, and then go home; inform a gentleman there—a chief, who has the name of Company, who sends soldiers, and then takes a country. Tell him what I say." After this he left the garden.

GEORGIAN CHRISTIANS.

On the 18th of November, I arrived at Sanjoon, built, according to Jewish tra- dition, by Ahasuerus. There is a Georgian there, Yakoob Khan by name, who is in the service of the Persian army, and occupies the situation of Colonel. He practices secretly the Christian religion, and has all his children baptized; and as his wife was just confined, he requested me to baptize the child; which I did; and Mullah Mehdee, my baptized convert, was godfather. I pressed upon Yakoob Khan the duty of confessing the name of Christ publicly; upon which he begg. me to recommend him to the Queen of England, in order to be made a Colonel in the British Army. Then he said he would immediately go to England, profess openly Christianity in the Colonel's uniform, and sword in hand. I could not give him any encouragement. I found there another young Georgian; who told me, if I did not take him on to England, and put him in the way to make money, he would turn Mussulman in spite of me. I told him he was welcome to do so.