* * a * English Cooking There is every reason
why the polite criticism of English cooking which was offered by M. Herbodeau, President of the French Culinary Society, should receive the full attention of members of the Hotels and Restaurants Assor elation of Great Britain. M. Herbodeau appreciates English cooking. He holds that it has a, quality which flatters the most sensitive palate, and that tourists would wish for nothing better than to find good hotels offering typically English cooking. That is no doubt true; we are not the only people who appreciate the change of diet when we go abroad. . The trouble. is that so many English cooks appear to despise the sort of fare which is proper to this country and prefer French dishes and all- French menus. The English excel in joints, roast birds, grills, puddings, pies and much else ; on their own ground they can produce dishes which the French cannot equal. Yet how often our caterers insist on a weak imitation of the French. It is strange that it should fall to a Frenchman to teach us to " cook British."
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