SHORTER NOTICES.
For those who desire full detail about the best growths of Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne, Mr. Allen's book will have value and interest. He gives full information about the varieties of vine from which the grape is produced in each district. But his aim is not information ; he wants to com- municate his enjoyment as an experimenter in vintages. Unluckily, more than a finished taste in drinks went to make the Notes from Professor Saintsbury's cellar book a little masterpiece, and Mr. Allen is not comparable with his model. Also, unlike Professor Saintsbury, he makes the man of modest means feel that these experiences move in worlds unrealizable ; partly because there is much question of banquets with elabor- ate succession of vintages. We prefer to limit our experience to one great wine just as a good book seems better than the best anthology. But our real complaint of Mr. Allen is that he neglects the lesser local wines, which, though drunk, as he says contemptuously, pour is soif, have often a charm and individuality that merit and admit description. Anjou has a dozen of them. And in the region of the Ain, which he passes lightly over, Manicle and Maretel are -perfect summer drinks. He is a little like a rose fancier who takes no interest in hedgerow kinds—which yet have their own beauty, and give it to a countryside, according to their varying type. Also, he does not sufficiently allow for factors which may glorify the greatest vintages. He talks much of the famous 1864 Lafitte which this reviewer had the happiness to drink often, thirty years ago, when Father Healy, of Bray, was of the company—and once when he was not. Without the wit the wine lost something of its perfection. In that town we drank champagne during the dinner, the claret after it; no one was allowed to smoke in the room. What a past
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