From Dover to the Note
THE Downs are the most famous English anchorage in song and story. At the gate of the Thames estuary they are a natural resting-place not only for vessels waiting for the flood-tide up the Estuary but for vessels waiting for a slant of wind to proceed down Channel. NatUrally, the idvent of steam made a great difference to the Downs -because steam is independent of tide and wind, but for the smaller sailing vessels, and indeed for any kind of vessel small enough to require shelter at times, the Downs anchorage is as important as ever. It is protected for about nine miles, along what would otherwise he the extremely expoSecl south:eastern corner of Kent, by the treacherous Goodwin Sands, which are popularly known as the Sands of Death. The merit of the " Goodwin " is that they afford a long anchorage, not indeed by any means perfect, but serviceable and welcome for ships that have not time to get to a better. The towns of Deal, Weimer, and Kingsdown are on the shore. The vice of the Goodwins is that they lie as a permanent obstruction in the greatest waterway of the world. To some extent they change their shape during great gales and though-the general character of the tidal streams round them is understood by all seamen only the local boatmen -have full knowledge of the changing depths, knolls, gullies; eddies, foxfallS, and swatehways.
Several yeart ago, the Rev. T. Stanley Treanor wrote a book, The Heroes of the Goodwin Sands, in which he described many of the gallant -rescues from -wrecks made by seamen of the Downs. Mr. G. B. Bayley's book' is a sequel to Mr. Treanor's. He tells in detail noVonly Of the wonderful work done by the lifeboat crews but of the quiet and efficient service of the seamen of the Downs during the War as members of the Dover-Patrol. We Can conscientiously recommend the book on its merits, but there is an additional reason for recommending it as Mr. Bayley has promised to hand over any profits for the endowment of a bed- in the Victoria (War Memorial) Hospital at Deal.
Mr. Bayley makes an interesting use of his knowledge of the loaal tidal streams when, in his early historical sketch, be discusses Caesar's landing-place. It is obvious that in this
matter the tidal streams may be a decisive fact, because we know from Caesar's account the direction of the wind and the time, though not the exact day, of his landing. Mr. Bayley's poinfis that Sir George Airey must have been wrong in his assumption that when Caesar resumed his voyage off Dover he turned down Channel instead of towards the Downs. For the north-going stream which runs on the flood between Dover and the Downs continues to run in the same direction for four hours after high-water. It is natural for anyone without local knowledge to take it for granted that when the flood gives place to the ebb the direction of the tide changes. The fact that it does not do so near Dover is vital, for Caesar tells us that he proceeded with a favourable tide and wind after the time of high-water. All this, however, has been worked out by Dr. Rice Holmes in his well-known book Ancient Britain.
It is sad that ofthe famous old Deal tuggers and of the galleys (many of them with twenty-four oars and some with more) there is not one left. What was accomplished, generally without disaster, by the completely open luggers and by the swift light galleys which were both rowed and sailed is almost beyond belief. We wish that Mr. Bayley had told us some- thing about the not less famous " hovellers " or unlicensed pilots. The origin of the word is obscure ; it is by no means certain that it is derived from the hovels in which these men lived. A good many of the unlicensed pilots were plunderers and bore an evil reputation ; but others were the true friends and guides of passing ships. Very likely—such is the mingling of good and bad in human nature—the typical hoveller may have combined both functions. The modern Thames sailing barge takes on an additional hand in an emergency and this man is known as a " huffier "—or hoveller."
Mr. Bayley was helped a great deal in writing his book by Mr. William Adams, one of the most famous of lifeboat coxswains, who died two years ago. Mr. Adams was strongly opposed to motor-power in a lifeboat because he feared that the propeller would be too easily damaged. The judicious reader will pardon the conservatism of the old salt.
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