26 JULY 1997, Page 26

Sir: I am emboldened to write by Glenn Wellman's letter

(19 July) commenting on Joanna Ritchie's less than generous remarks about your excellent restaurant critic, David Fingleton, whose column has happily changed my life.

I spent many years and considerable sums as a subscriber to New Statesman, New Society, Tribune, Marxism Today etc., and was only recently relieved of the com- pulsory angst and piety, personified by Mr Wellman, associated with these journals.

This relief was largely brought about by the enthusiastic sybaritism displayed by Mr Fingleton, which has resulted, in my case, in many enjoyable and angst-free visits to the reviewed restaurants — visits I can now afford, having cancelled my subscriptions to radical publications.

It is fashionable to declare personal interests, cf. Messrs Aitken and Hamilton, and thus I must admit to an encounter with Mr Fingleton some years ago. I was pre- sumed guilty, inter alia, of dislodging a con- stable's helmet at a CND rally in Trafalgar Square. Mr Fingleton, whose lithe form at `I think they call them "Ladas".' that time graced the Vine Street magis- trates' bench, conditionally discharged me with no more than a severe caution, even then demonstrating the discrimination and fairness so evident in his epicurean pro- nouncements.

Let us have no more criticism of this excellent gentleman, and in gratitude sub- scribe to a fund to provide salvation to Ms Ritchie and Mr Wellman, in the form of frequent and expensive dinners in the com- pany of Mr Fingleton.

David Sawyer 51 Oman Road, London NW3