SPECTATOR WINE CLUB
Magnificent Chileans
Auberon Waugh
MOST of the 24 wines specially chosen for this offer and presented to the panel in one of the most serious tastings I can remember were French, but five countries were repre- sented, including Australia, Greece and Argentina. We were surprised and discon- certed to find that the Chileans came out streets ahead time and time again, despite some excellent competition from France. The result is an offer averaging £5.64 the bottle — not particularly cheap — with four out of the six from Chile.
These Chilean wines really are magnifi- cent. The Montes range, accounting for three of them, should not be confused with that winery's Villa Montes secondary range, now available in warehouses and chain stores, although they are quite good, too. But these three Montes wines are the real McCoy, and I do not doubt that members will fall on them, as we did, with cries of delight.
First a nice, lively sauvignon from the COtes de Duras(1), a satellite of Bordeaux in the Dordogne. At £4.66 this wine has a good, sharpish sauvignon smell, fruit in abundance and a lovely herbaceous quality which shouts for a bright summer morning to drink it.
Next the famous Montes Chardonnay(2), grown from ungrafted, pre-phylloxera vines imported from France in the last century, like all the Montes grapes: a powerful, fruit-salady chardonnay with touches of pollen, not likely to be mistaken for white burgundy, but a handsome, proud wine in its own right and reasonably priced at £5.79.
Last of the whites, a classic burgundy for which serious wine-drinkers will never lose the taste. This example from Macon Clesse(3), which proudly announces it comes from vieilles vignes by a process of vendange manuelle, is very cheap at its price of £6.98, painful as it is to have to say so. One panellist found the touch of honey which makes middle-aged Britons weep with nostalgia for the days when we could afford as much burgundy as we wanted. By any standards, it is a good, sturdy example.
Now for the reds, all Chilean and all out- standing. The Cornellana Cabernet Merlot 1996(a) at £4.80 is a strong, businesslike wine which seemed to me to be making var- ious statements, but the rest of the panel described it as round, fruity, easy to drink. Whatever one's reaction, it is a robust, high-quality wine which everyone should enjoy.
Next the Montes Malbec 1996(5) at £5.79. By the time we reached it, the panel seemed to be in an expansive mood. 'Deli- cious, heavy, rich wine,' I read from my own notes, 'lovely liqueur chocolate taste.' Another participant had written, 'Real Malbec smell, chocolaty taste, cherry brandy liqueur chocs, delicious.' •I can't think it really tasted of liqueur chocolates, since it would be disgusting if it did, but it received very high marks indeed. The 1996 will be replaced after 50 cases by the 1997, which 1 tasted and was delighted to accept.
I don't think vintage variations are quite so noticeable down there as they are in France, for instance.
Finally, the Montes Reserve Merlot 1996(6) at the same price, which received even higher marks: deep purple colour, sticks to glass, pure, deep merlot taste, a higher class of wine than Malbec with a really beautiful taste. I think it would be a mistake not to have them both, to choose according to mood. They are most unusual and excellent wines, and I am proud to offer them.
The mixed case, as I have said, works out at £5.64 the bottle, delivered to your door.
I don't think there will be many more offers averaging out at under £5. This is a very good one.
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