SIR,—For fear of its misuse Mr. Ray would dis- courage
the introduction of margarine in the average British kitchen. I am happy to say that from my experience of the good British cooks' power of dis- crimination I do NOT share his misgivings.
Home cooks are often disinclined to try French recipes because for many these are generally synonymous with expensive ingredients such as butter, cream, etc. As the difference in price between butter and margarine has only narrowed during the last few months, to be able to introduce a useful sauce like the sauce poivrade, which does not rely on these ingredients for its perfection, is quite a helpful step. May I suggest, however, that sauce poivrade (based on butter or margarine) has never been recommended for dyspeptic people.
Fortunately, with Mr. Ray as guardian of the 'Art of French Cooking' the affairs of that unhappy country should soon take a turn for the better.—
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