Fragrant fille

THERE ARE many interesting Feasts coming up. This Sunday, it's St John Boscoe, who was born in Piedmont, devot- ed his life to poor children and raised insti- tutes and missionary houses for educational works which continue through- out the world. On 1 February is St Ignatius (not Loyola), Bishop of Antioch, who was condemned to the wild beasts during Tra- jan's persecution, and martyred in Rome, which he took very stoically. Candlemas, the Purification of the Blessed Virgin Mary, is on the 2nd. The patron saint of all throat infections, St Blaise, is on the 3rd he comes in very useful at this time of year. And, on the 5th, is dear St Agatha, patron of breasts, as hers were cut off, poor thing. So pay your penny and take your choice.

Maitre M. Jean-Andre Charial, the two- star Michelin chef from L'Oustau de Bau- maniere, Les Baux, France (his own restaurant), has just been giving a series of masterclasses at the St James Court Hotel, which has three restaurants. But he was in the Auberge de Provence displaying his wares, so I went along for a munch, which was delicious and uncomplicated, ana I thought you might like a few of the receipts:

Red mullet in basil sauce

(for 4)

4 whole red mullet, scaled and gutted 7 fluid oz best olive oil 1 bouquet garni handful of basil leaves 1 beef tomato sherry vinegar

Plunge the tomato into boiling water for 10 seconds, peel it, cut into two and remove pips. Chop the basil leaves, dice the tomato, and leave to marinate with the olive oil, a dash of vinegar to taste, salt and freshly ground pepper. Mix in a jar and leave for a day or two to enhance the flavour. Divide the fish into fillets and either steam or poach with the bouquet garni for about two minutes. Warm the basil sauce but do not let it boil. Spoon onto warm plates and place the fish fillets on top. Simple and good.

Next we had:

Fillet of lamb in puff pastry

2 lb rack of lamb 2 shallots 4 oz button mushrooms teaspoon tapcnade (10 grammes) 7-8 oz puff pastry

Finely chop the mushrooms and shallots, cook in a little butter and lemon juice until the liquid has evaporated. Season to taste and reserve. For the tapenade soak 2 oz anchovies in water for 20 minutes. Stone 7 oz black olives. Blend with the anchovies and add about 3 fluid oz of olive oil, drop by drop. You could use that olive paste in jars if you like — just add a little anchovy and the oil.

Cut the fillet from the rack of lamb or ask your butcher to do so. Lightly fry the fillet all over to seal it, but keep it rare. Mix the tapenade and the mushroom duxelle together. Roll out the pastry in a suitable shape to fit the fillet. Place the meat on the pastry, spread with the mushrooms and olive mixture. Roll up the pastry to encase everything, press the edges well together. Brush with egg-wash and cook in a pre- heated oven at Gas 9, 470 F or 250 C for 10 minutes. When the meat has been removed from the bones, this amount is probably enough for only two, or maybe three. The bones can be used to make a gravy. This was served with his version of Gratin Dauphinois.

Dauphinois potatoes

(for 6)

lbs potatoes

11/2 pints single cream 1 clove garlic Peel the potatoes and slice thinly on a mandolin. Season and mix in a bowl. Rub a gratin dish with the garlic. Pour the cream into the dish and set it over the heat. Bring to the boil and let it simmer until reduced by half. Turn down the heat and slowly add the potatoes, making sure they are well covered by the cream. Bring to the boll again for five minutes, then place the dish in a `bain-marie' in a pre-heated oven at about Gas 4, 355 F or 179 C, until the dish is golden brown and the potatoes are thor- oughly soft when pierced. Undercooked dauphinois are disgusting. Probably takes about three quarters of an hour.

We finished off with a magnificent pear tart with spices and caramel sauce, which I shall keep for another day. Have a loving St Valentine's Day; Lent will be with us in a trice.

Jennifer Paterson