Simon Hoggart
ONCE again, I must apologise. Last month's offer, from John Armit, was so successful that they rapidly ran out of two wines. These have now been replaced or substituted, and everyone should have got their order by now. I hope. I can't think of any way round this problem, short of recommending crummy bottles which won't run out. Since that would be silly, I've decided on another approach, at least with one terrific wine offered this month by Derek Smedley, MW of Hedley Wright.
This is the Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2001(1). It's from Marlborough, the fabulous wine area of New Zealand, and it's perfect for anyone suffering Sauvignon Blanc fatigue. This is different. It's elegant, it's rich, it's fruity, and it has a lovely pear fragrance. It's gorgeous. I had to get it for you. But when I called Derek, he said that happy customers had been emptying his cellars, leaving him with only 40 cases. Frantic calls to the winery were met by the news that the UK had had its allocation for the year, and that was that.
So Derek not only held all 40 cases for Spectator readers, but, to get this offer away to a flying start, he has actually knocked off the price. Grab it while you can. If you're not paying by card, I suggest you send a separate cheque for the Wither Hills, just in case you're too late.
But I love the others as well. These come in pairs, all from the southern hemisphere. The Chilean Montes Sauvignon Blanc 200112) is also full of fruit. It's delicious: smooth, rounded, and yet with the familiar crispness of the grape. Derek's knocked 10 per cent off the price.
Also the Montes Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 19990). Like many New World claret-style wines, this is scrumptious now, but will keep for a long time. Why pay Bordeaux prices when you can get this — with its savour of cedar, cigars, toast and blackcurrant — for so much less?
Australia is next, specifically the Willandra region of New South Wales. This is now dry scrub with the sort of poor soil that good vines love. Once it must have been fertile land, because the winery is surrounded by Aboriginal sites. The Soft Press Chardonnay 2000(3) is perfect for anyone weary of oaked wines. It's made by piling the grapes up and letting the juices trickle slowly down, like virgin olive oil, so the wine is fresh and aromatic, and more in the French style than is usual round there. Derck has taken off 91p a bottle, or 13 per cent, to make it yet another terrific bargain, and a great wine to welcome the spring.
Willandra's Shiraz 20006) is another treat. It's easy to drink now; it's mild, soft and mellow, but it also has zingy flavours of mint and pepper. At the same 13 per cent discount, it's terrific value.
Finally, two superb South African wines — goodness, how they have come on lately. If the Rustenberg Chardonnay 2000W were from Oz or California, you'd expect to pay £10 or £12. With our 10 per cent discount, it's a mere £8.09 a bottle. It's rich and complex with, I think, a perfect balance between the fruit, the oak and the acidity. It's made sur lie, which packs in even more flavour: a really, really nice wine, to be served when you have very good friends round for dinner.
As is the John X Merriman 1999(y) from the same vineyard. This is also in the claret style, made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. It's delicious now, but will go on improving for years. Gorgeous. Again, why pay more for inferior Bordeaux? People are really going to catch on to South Africa soon, and I suspect that prices will shoot up.
The sample case includes two bottles each of (2) to (7). All deliveries are free, and there's a further discount of £5 per order (not per case) if you buy two cases, or £15 per order for three or more cases. And if you like the wines, you can re-order at the same price for a month after the offer closes.
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