30 MAY 1987, Page 19

Pop off

THE yuppification of the City has changed a solid old champagne bar into Coates's Glitzy Café, open from half past seven for breakfast meetings. Joining one this week, I asked for champagne. Not until half past eleven, I was told. Prepared against this, I produced a bottle of my own, but the Waitress said that the law forbade her (or me) to open it: 'It's time all that was swept away,' she said. I add this to City and Suburban's manifesto. City deregulation should follow the Big Bang with a loud pop.