The only pretty ring time
I TRUST you all had a splendid Easter and were not caught in any terrible traffic jams or any other horrendous travelling prob- lems. The clocks went forward which always gladdens my heart; so lovely to be able to see when you start out of an evening. We had a glorious Mozart Mass at the Oratory, the sun was shining and spring had sprung, or so it seemed at the time. I was sent an extremely delicious Easter egg made of very good plain chocolate and full of different truffles from someone called Rococo (geddit?) in King's Road, for which many thanks. It was a great treat and much enjoyed, especially as Lent was past. As I write I am having my first hangover for six weeks, dear oh dear, but joy of joys, I have just heard Roger Cooper has been released so we must have a great fiesta for him. Hurrah, hurrah!
Let us turn to spring food. Here is a dainty dish to set before a returning hero — from the Auberge de Provence's res- taurant book at the St James's Court Hotel in Buckingham Gate. You need a lot of artichokes, a good thing to bring back from a day trip to France.
Artichoke terrine with cream and chive sauce
9 lbs globe artichokes 8 egg yolks 1 teaspoon plain flour Chives
13/4 pints (1 litre) of crème fraiche
Salt and freshly ground white pepper Whipped cream, to serve
This terrine has to sit for 12 hours, so make it the day before you want it. Preheat the oven to Gas 6, 400F, 200C. Prepare a bain-marie: select a rectangular oven-proof dish or roasting tin big enough to contain the terrine. Fill it with water to a depth of 11/4 inches and place a sheet of newspaper folded in two on the bottom of the dish or tin to prevent the water from boiling during the cooking. Place the dish in the oven and raise the heat to its highest setting until you put the terrine in, when you turn it down again to Gas 6 etc. Prepare the artichokes by cutting away the leaves with scissors until only the hearts (fonds) are left. Scrape away the hairy chokes with a sharp little knife. Mix the flour with some water and add to a saucepan of boiling salted water, then cook the artichokes in it for about 30 minutes until tender. Drain the hearts and cut them into slices about 1/4 inch thick. Arrange these in layers in the bottom of the terrine, adding a few chopped chives between the layers. Beat the egg yolks into the crème fraiche, season to taste and pour over the artichokes. Put the terrine into the oven in the bain-marie, turn the heat back to Gas 6 and cook for 30 minutes. Leave to cool for 12 hours, then unmould and cut into slices. Serve with whipped cream, adding a few chopped chives before whipping. This is plenty for eight people.
I am indebted to Cherry Valley for a duck voucher so let us have to follow:
Roast duck with olives
1 oven-ready duck weighing 4 lbs 4 oz black olives with stones 4 oz green olives with stones 16 fl oz madeira 2 oz unsalted butter.
For the stock: 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 shallot, 1 clove of garlic, 1 leek, 1 celery stalk, 1 oz butter, 16 fl oz red wine.
Peel and clean all the vegetables and dice finely. Remove giblets and wing tips from the duck and cut into small pieces, but keep the liver op one side. Put the 1 oz of butter into a saucepan and fry the veget- ables and the chopped duck pieces and giblets gently for five minutes until just browning, add the red wine and 16 fluid oz of water and keep at a rolling boil for 30 minutes until reduced by a quarter, skim- ming now and then. Roast the duck in a preheated oven at Gas 8, 500F, 280C for 40 minutes. While it is roasting remove and keep the olive stones. Blanch the green olives in boiling water for 5 minutes. Put the madeira and olive stones in a frying pan and boil to reduce by half. Add 8 fluid oz of the stock and reduce again. Add the duck's liver finely chopped to thicken the sauce. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to your own desire, then strain into a saucepan. At the last minute, gradually add the 2 oz of unsalted butter cut into small pieces, whisking vigorously all the time over a very low heat. Add the olives. Place the duck in a shallow serving dish and pour the sauce around it. As a duck doesn't go very far you could cook two, using the same amount of sauce, I reckon.
Jennifer Paterson
Previous page
