SIMON HOGGART
As I write, the arctic winds have died down but a heavy, soaking drizzle has replaced the cold. So there could be no better time to have a mini-bar selection of wines to welcome the spring, all supplied by our friends at Lay & Wheeler. Just buying these wines will oblige the skies to clear and the temperature to rise. And if it doesn’t, at least you’ll have something consoling to drink. All are heavily discounted.
The Bourgogne Blanc Les Sétilles 20041 from Olivier Leflaive, one of the most celebrated of all Burgundy négoçiants, may be a generic Burgundy, but the grapes all come from the villages of PulignyMontrachet and Meursault, which in wine terms is a bit like buying Sainsbury’s own brand caviar. Four-fifths was barrel-fermented, which means that it has a gentle taste of oak, but nothing to dull the fresh, zingy, perfumed fruit. Reduced by 20 per cent to a stunning £7.16. If you like to drink white Burgundy in quantity but can’t afford Le Montrachet, I could hardly recommend this more.
Rosé wines continue to grow in popularity, mainly because they are now made from red grapes with real oomph. In the old days rosés tasted faintly of — well, they didn’t taste of anything much, faintly or other wise. But this Pinot Noir 2005 from Lawson’s Dry Hills2 in Marlborough, New Zealand, is gorgeous — a luminous colour, with the luscious plum and cherry flavours of any good Pinot, but crisp and cold and refreshing. Reduced by 15 per cent to £7.61.
There are so many Australian Shirazes that it is not easy to pick one out. This Fantail 2004 from Victoria3 struck me as being ever so slightly lighter than some, but still with the full fat flavour the fans expect. When you fire up the first barbecue of the year and that grey cloud drifts towards your neighbours, this is the wine you should be quaffing. The 19 per cent discount brings it down to £5.22.
Finally a Vieilles Vignes Hautes Côtes de Beaune 20024 from Nicolas Potel is another first-rate generic Burgundy, reduced by 15 per cent to only £8.29. We held an informal tasting with dinner guests the other day, and the only Frenchman among us declared, ‘This is delicious!’ and placed the bottle firmly in front of him. A look of nostalgic delight crossed his face whenever he topped himself up, an experience you will share.
All deliveries are free, and there is a sample case containing 3 bottles of each wine. D
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