20 NOVEMBER 1915, Page 33

A *USEFUL COOKERY-BOOK.* FOOD reformers are indeed coming into their

own when a cookery-book such as this, which appeals to the "moderate" feeder, and does not attach other virtue than that of economy to any particular form of diet, yet lays stress on the import- ance of food values. Mrs. Byron asks and answers the pertinent question : " What is necessary food and what is mere extra luxury P " She divides her answer into eight heads, giving a list of the things which make up a. wholesome diet. She "puts it simply and plainly," and these pages ought to be very helpful to those who have not hitherto paid special attention to this side of the task of " ordering dinner." They can here see at a glance the wasteful folly of ordering a meal consisting, we will say, of lentil soup, fish, a joint, a custard- pudding, with a dessert of cheese and nuts; or, to go to the other extreme, of a carrot soup, curried beetroot, a vegetable hot-pot, a eompSte of fruits, and a dessert of peppermint creams or honey drops. These two nightmare menus do not, unfortunately, exist only iu one's imagination. The first (or one very like it) has been ordered and eaten by all too many people ; and the second might easily emerge from the frantic search for economic vegetarian salvation on the part of a young and enthusiastic household, who would, if they persisted in this course, soon come to resemble the "young person of Pinner, Who was thin as a lath if not thinner." But this book, if it is used with intelligence, will help its owner to choose a wholesome middle path, and neither to throw away money, nor to economize at the expense of his diges- tion. In the chapter called "A Few Tips as to Economy " there is plenty of good advice, such as—" Personal shopping is indispensable," "Onstard-powder and egg-powder should be used whenever possible instead of eggs ; these last must be treated as articles of food for use instead of meat "; and we would particularly call attention to this—" Aim at variety; then you won't have dishes half wasted because people are tired of the taste of them." She does not, however, mention that moist sugar (not brown), which is cheaper than castor, can be satisfactorily used in place of the latter in puddings and cakes, or that ()old bacon " goes farther " than fried rashers. Each chapter is introduced by notes giving explanatory advice as to the best way of using the receipts which follow. As only Ruch ingredients as are now within the reach of ordinary households are included in these receipts, we are here saved the tiresome work of altering ante- bellum, receipts to suit our present wishes on the subject of justifiable expense. Besides the receipts, ranging from soups to toffee, there are two useful time-tables, one for cooking vegetables, and another for cooking puddings.