Correspondence
A LETTER FROM OBERAMMERGAU. [To the Editor of the SPECTATOR.] SIR,—As my quiet little Bavarian home is soon to be the goal of many thousands of people from all over the world, who will come here from May to September, 1930, to witness the fulfilment of the vow, made by the villagers of Oberammergau in 1634, to perform the Passion Play every tenth year, as a mark of reverent gratitude to Almighty God for preserving them from the plague which was decimating Europe, I think it will interest you to hear a little of our life and happenings during the winter.
After one of the wannest, and most lovely, autumns ever known in the Ammergau Alps, snow has gently fallen for four days, and has enveloped the little village of Oberammergau in the white mantle of its winter sleep, from which- it will only be awakened by the joy bells of Easter, proclaiming the new life returning both to human beings and also to Mother Earth, who will exchange her snowy carpet for one equally white, one of snowbells, those fairy relations of our smaller snowdrops, which sway and dance in the wind till one can almost hear their soft music. The first snow, -which with great kindness holds its hand till All Saintstide is over, so as not to extinguish the flames of light in the little lanterns which adorn every grave in God's Acre on All Hallow E'en and All Souls Day.
Winter replaceS the noise of a dying autumn, and only the jingle of sleighbells is heard in the snow-clad streets, as wood is carted from the forest. December 1st brings us Advent Sunday; with its nearer anticipation of Christmas, that wonderful home festival to which old and young alike look forward. Local custom gives us an " Advent Tree " or " Advent Wreath " : the trees are diminutive Christmas trees, which bear one candle for each Sunday in Adilent ; the wreaths are wooden rings with as many holes as there are days before Christmas Eve, decorated with fir green, and-gay ribbons, and hung up over the dining-table, one candle being added every night till the circle is complete. Advent also brings us the Angel's Mass," the very early Mass at which the school children sing thrice a week, the origin of which is uncertain.
December 6: A day of quaking hearts amongst the children, to whom the yearly advent of St. Nicholas is a very real thing. When dusk falls, two figures are seen going in and out of all the houses where there are children—St. Nicholas, in episcopal robes, and his black servant, both carrying sacks. If the parents give a good report, St. Nicholas rewards the children with nuts and cakes ; but if an adverse One, then the black servant pops the' guilty one in his sack, and runs off with him, till bitter tears and promises of amendment, ensure the culprit's release. It is quite noticeable how good most children are in the early days of December ! Quietness reigns once more, till the silver stars shine out on the " Holy Night " as we designate Christmas Eve here.
Through the unshuttered windows, the lighted Christmas
trees may be seen in every home, however humble; shine forth a welcome to the Christ Child, so soon to be orn anew in the hearts of His waiting people.
The large Christmas trees on either side of the War Memorial, as well as the small trees on each of the graves are lighted, and twinkle like little fallen stars.
Midnight draws near ; the moon and the stars vie with one another in brightening the deep azure sky, and in shedding their radiance on those, who, like the shepherds of old, are making their way, lantern in hand, down from the mountain side.
The church bells peal across the snow, to he answered by.the magnificent new peal from the 'Benedictine monastery at Ettal. The church fills rapidly, the music and the sweet voices of the singers rise and fall till a triumphant shout rends the skies, . Gloria in excelsis .Deo."
New Year's Eve, or Sylvester, as we say here in memory of the good Saint of 335 has a lovely custom. Evening shadows see the whole village in church, listening to a homely discourse from their priest of the events of the past year, and uniting in penitence, and thanksgiving, for all their shortcomings and blessings. The service ended, a procession is formed, headed by the band and choir, when all go forth " to seek the star." Three men, dressed as the Royal Magi, preceded by a huge illuminated star, lead the villagers forth, through the snowy streets, brightened by the unshuttered windows showing the lighted Christmas trees ; pausing at intervals to sing old carols. As they wind their way on, they are met by a similar procession . formed of children, led by three boy Magi. The two processions join forces, and return to church.for a solemn Te Deum, before dispersing to celebrate the coming.of the New Year with mirth and merriment, either in their own homes or in one of the inns.
So 1930 dawns ; may God give us grace to end it in the same
simple happy spirit in which we have begun am, Sir, &e.,
Youn CORRESPONDENT IN OBERAIrIMFAI GM.%
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