6 OCTOBER 1928, Page 46

Crimped cod; iviriodeock, plurii-pudding--that is the menu of a Christmas

dinner recommended by Thomas Walker (" accompanied by chaMpagne ") in TheArt of Dining (Cayme Press, 21s.). Mr. Filson Young contributes an interesting introduction, showing us how Walker's curious character is revealed in these pages. He doted on his mathei; _never married, and died of pulmonary apoplexy at the age of 52, although he was the author of The Art of Attaining High Health. The " happy mean " he insisted on would be con- sidered excess in these days—witness a dinner at Black-wall where a party of eight considered the following tobe a moderate repast : turtle soup, whitebait, grouse, apple fritters and jelly, ices, and a " good dessert." The liquids served were punch (with the turtle " of course "), champagne, claret, a little port, and one liqueur apiece. The only incident marring this harmony was that a guest demanded bottled porter. This is a very amusing book.