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A Holiday -Iteland [We publish- on this page articles • and notes which may help our readers in their They are written by correspondents who have visited the places described. We shall of the Travel articles published in our columns. Inquiries should be addressed to 99 Gower Street, W.C.1.]

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[At this time of year many people are already making plans for their Summer holidays next year. This prompts us to give our readers tho following useful notes about Iceland, written by an enthusiastic visitor to that comparatively unknown resort. We are shortly publishing an article by our Iceland correspondent, reviewing the history of Iceland in the light of the approaching mit enary celebration of the " Althing," the Icelandic Parliament, in 1.930.—En. Spectator] IT is said with a good deal of truth, that no one goes once only to Iceland. Those who pay one visit to the land where frost meets fire " are so fascinated that they are sure to return. For Iceland is not only worth seeing, it is worth going a long way to see. In a number of ways it is unique. It js larger than Ireland, yet it has not a single railway, and has but few roads properly so called. It is a land of many mountains and enormous glaciers, of boiling springs and geysers, of huge waterfalls that thunder unheard and unseen in trackless deserts. There are scores of volcanoes which have left many ancient streams of lava, and there are countless lakes.

There are practically no inns in the interior of the country, but farm-houses lie scattered at intervals wherever the land has. grass enough to support'sheep and cattle, and every farm is a potential inn. Indeed many farms now have built special guest rooms, and the visitor will find these to be perfectly clean, whilst the food is wholesome and plentiful. The hospitality of the people is amazing. I have even been welcomed with open arms when I have arrived unexpectedly, and late at night at a farm where I was a complete stranger.

PRACTICAL HINTS.

A few practical hints may be useful. Comfortable mail boats leave this country about once a week—sometimes more often. The direct voyage to Reykjavik takes four or five days, but those who enjoy the sea can, if they prefer, take one of the steamers that- cruise round the east, north and west coasts before calling at the capital. This costs very little more than the direct voyage, and it gives the traveller the opportunity of many shore excursions, on pony back, at the intermediate ports. Moreover, in this way much beautiful fjord scenery will be seen. .

But most people go straight to Reykjavik ; and it is just possible to do the return ,trip during a fortnight's absence from this country. As however, this gives the visitor only two or three days in Iceland,he _will have to confine his inland excursions to such as can be done by motor car. He will be able to visit the historic valley of Thingvellir—the ," Parliament plain," where the national assembly has met annually in the open air for nearly a thousand yeitrs. The scenery is most striking. Deep rifts cut through the lava soil, and a great chasm runs for miles along each edge of the sunken 'plain, at the end of which lies the lake of Thingvellir—as lovely a sheet of water as any land can show. He will be able to drive across the Hellisheithi, a wild and savage desert of-barren lava, suggestive of a petrified ocean, till he reaches the edge of a great cliff 1200 ft. high, down which the road zigzags. to the plain in which is a geyser that spouts magnificently every two hours.

PONY TRANSPORT.

But the man (or the woman—my wife always comes with me to Iceland) who really wants to see the country, must hire ponies and ride far from Reykjavik. If he is going to penetrate far inland, he will be wise to consult an agent in the capital, who will find him a guide and ponies. He will also take with him some provisions such as tinned meat, fruit and vegetables, to supplement and vary the farmhouse fare. If he also carries a small tent, he will not only be able to visit much country that would otherwise be closed to him, but he will be indepen- dent in the event of the farm at which he asks for aeconuno- dation, being already overcrowded with other guests. With tents, my wife and I once rode for five consecutive days over some of the wildest and most impressive country I have ever seen, without coming across a single human habitation. It was a solemn and wonderful experience which remains for ever photographed on our. minds. Some people may' find continuous travel in Iceland too expensive for them. They can choose' a' farm and make it their headquarters, exploring the surrounding country from it on ponies with a farm hand to guide them. They can then ride to a different district and do the same thing again. In this way much country can be covered without undue expense. Those who have read and hived the Sagas-will thus be able to 'visit the scenes they have -read about, for every Icelander knows his Sagas and is pioud of them.

THE ANGLER'S PARADISE.

Iceland is a happy hunting ground for the angler. Some of the best salmon and trout fishing in the world is to be found there. Of course, salmon fishing costs money, but trout may be had in great abundance almost everywhere, and up country a charge is hardly ever exacted. - Cheap lodgings, with simple, hospitable, well-educated people ; fishing and reading, and a post that comes once a week at the most, what more restful holiday could be imagined !

The climate in summer is very much like that of a cool British summer. If the north wind blows hard it can be cold. When it rains it does it properly, but the rain often stops as suddenly and unexpectedly as it starts. The seasons in 'Iceland often seem to be the opposite of those in England. A wet summer in England generally means a fine, dry one in Iceland, while last winter when this country_ lay frost bound for weeks on end, Icelandic trawlers had to come to English ports to fetch ice to freeze their fish at home !

Iceland is a country that still remains unspoilt. There is just the great expanse of land and sky and water there are mountains and valleys and—ponies. A holiday there is like stepping back into the Middle Ages—with some modem improvements. A holiday on horseback is not only healthy, but is as different from the daily routine of _ most peoples lives as anything could be ; and it is t..e best way I knoiv of really seeing the country.

WHEN TO GO TO ICELAND.

The best time of year to visit Iceland is from early June to the end of September. In June and July there is daylight all night, and when darkness returns there are frequent displays of Aurora Borealis. The language is the original Norse that was formerly spoken in all Scandinavian countries, hilt Icelanders are, of necessity, good linguists, and English is now taught in the schools. The visitor will therefore have no "difficulty in securing an English speaking guide who will also act as interpreter.

The two best known tourist agents are Messrs. Helgi Zogga & Sons, and Mr. Stefan Stefansson, both of Reykjavik, either of whom will make all arrangements for a trip at an inclusive charge. . ,

Two steamship lines ply to Iceland, the " United Steamship Company " (agents, Messrs: Furness, Withy & Co. Atlantic Chambers, Leith), and the " Iceland Steamship Company " (agents, Messrs. Ellingsen & Co. 2 Commercial Street, Leith). The first-class single fare from Co., or Hull to Iceland (any port) is £7 10s., food extra, 8s. a day. The second-class single fare is £5, with food at 5s. a day. There is also a cheap return fare on one of the steamers at £12 first-class for the round trip.

ATHOLE MURRAY.