SPECTATOR'S LIBRARY.
MEDICAL GUIDE-BOORS,
On the Curative Influence of the Climate of Pau, and the Mineral Waters of the Pyrenees on Disease: with descriptive Notices of the Geology, Botany. Natural History, Mountain-Sports, Local Antiquities. and Topography or the Pyrenees, and their principal Wateriug.Places. By A. Taylor, M.D Parker.
TRAVELS.
Excursion, in and about Newfoundland. during the years 1839 and 1940. By J. B. Jukes. M.A., F.G.S., F.C.P.S.; of St. John's College, Cambridge ; late Geolo-
gical Surveyor of Newfoundland. In two volumes. Murray.
STATISTICS.
Notesof a Tour in the Manufacturing District. of Lancashire; in a Series of Letters to his Grace the Archbishop of Dublin. By W. Cooke Taylor, LL.D. &e., of Trinity College, Dublin; Author of "The Natural History of Society," 8:c. Sze. Duncan and Malcolm.
PAU AND THE MINERAL WATERS OF THE PYRENEES.
THE name of Pau is familiar to most persons, but few know much snore about it ; even physicians having sent patients in search of the mineral waters of Pau, though the only waters the town pos- sesses are those of the river Grave. The great peculiarity of Pau is the stillness of its air and its relative effect upon the constitu- tion. Surrounded on all sides except the East and South-east, the winds from which quarters are warm and dry, the town "frequently, one might say, enjoys a stillness of atmosphere so complete as to leave a doubt as to how the wind really blows. So much is this the case, that it is said of a certain naval captain, who had buf- feted many a breeze, that he left Pau in disgust, because during the two or three years he had lived there he had never once encountered, in nautical phraseology, a capful of wind."
The place is also favoured in other respects. The number of rainy days in London is 178, at Pau only 109; and though a greater quantity of wet falls at the latter town, the soil is so ab- sorbent, and the natural drainage so good, that the climate is never damp, and there are few days on which the healthy, and even the invalid, sufficiently clothed, may not take exercise out of doors. The mean temperature of the autumn at Pau is 62 degrees, of winter 45 degrees, and of spring 58 degrees; being about two degrees higher for the average of the autumn than that for the month of August at the Land's End. The climatic advantages of Pau over Nice consists in the absence of the mistral, and other cold, dry, searching 'winds; its general advantage, that whereas at Nice, one person in thirty-one dies annually, at Pau it is one in forty-five ; whilst the district, the department of the Basses Pyrenees, is famous for longevity in the abstract : in 1841, twenty-six persons died be- tween eighty and eighty-five, six between eighty-five and ninety, seven between ninety and one hundred, besides several who were living beyond a hundred. Excepting epidemics, from which Pau is free, and malaria fevers, the climates of Rome and Pau approxi- mate the closest ; though our author, with the zeal of a spa- doctor, gives more than half-a-dozen " eligible " reasons in favour of Pau on matters apart from air, and half-jocosely presses some other causes into his service.
SIGNS OF THE CLTMATE.
A good opportunity is afforded once a week at Pan, on Monday, the weekly market-day, of observing the physique of the Bearnese population ; at least of that part within seven or eight miles of it. Every road pours upon the town its tributary streams of peasantry to swell a throng which renders the principal streets almost impassable. Independently of the picturesque effect produced by the lively and well-assorted colouring of their costumes, one cannot but be struck with the decidedly marked appearances of health in both sexes. We do not see among this crowd the emaciation produced either by griping poverty, constitutional debility, or enervating vices, but a well-balanced tran- quillity of manner, and a physical development not exaggerated but compact, which, little interfered with by art, conveys to the mind the impressiou of what a peasantry ought to be, neither above nor below its position, with health that knows no violent alternations, and a contentment the fruit of the mess sana in corpore sano. Among the women occasionally may be seen cases of goitre, but these are chiefly from the marshy district of the Pont Long. They are much less fre- quent than in the adjoining district of Bigorre, where in some of the lateral vallies leading from Campan to Reneges frightful examples of this disfiguring affection constantly force themselves upon the notice of the traveller.
Both men and women in Beam, although tanned by exposure to the sun's rays, yet show a clearness and uniformity of complexion with a firmness of fibre that distinctly mark the absence of a lymphatic diathesis. * * If the augurs found in the entrails of the animals examined marks of disease, they wisely considered that the gods were unpropitious ; for the climate that could produce visceral disease in them could scarcely be expected to spare ani- mals of a more refined and tender organization. On inquiry, then, we have found that the domestic animals in the district under consideration are hardy and little visited by disease, while among them there is a patience, a tracta- bility, and freedom from vice, which one does not meet with in a more exciting atmosphere.
TESTS OF A DRY ATMOSPHERE.
There are some circumstances although familiar, which we shall give, as illustrating the peculiar absence of free communicable humidity in the atmo- sphere at Pau. Although considerably more rain falls in Pau than in London and in some other situations in England, yet from the absorbent nature of the soil, and from some peculiar electric state of the atmosphere, (for the baro- meter, during some of the winter and spring months, most strangely rises on the approach of rain, and falls upon that of dry weather,) the ladies, even during a continuance of rainy weather, find that their hair, living hygrometers highly sensitive to an overcharged state of the atmosphere, retains the curl much better than in England; indeed, so much is this the case, that some who in England were obliged to wear the hair en bandeaux find that it now curls without effort. Another familiar proof of the deficiency of free moisture in the atmosphere may be given, viz, that steel articles of furniture are found little affected with rust even in unoccupied houses, nor do the walls of the latter show marks of damp. A French gentleman, proprietor of a country-house on the Coteaux of Gelos, which had been occupied by Lord Falkland and family, exposed in all directions to the weather, informed the author, that in this house, where no fires bad been kept for two years, there was not the least appearance of mildew observeable on the paper or furniture; and that on opening the windows from time to time at long intervals to air the apartments, the flies were found alive and active.
The effect of the climate upon the circulation is said to be pecu- liar. " The pulse beats with a slow, soft, equable stroke ; and the arterial excitement appears just sufficient to keep up arterial action to that point that does not wear out the machinery." The place is consequently adapted to cure or alleviate all disorders arising from excitement or irritation, especially in all symptoms indicative of consumption or tending to it, if sought before organic injury has arisen.
The immediate beneficial effect is only felt by the invalid. Per- sons in good health require an acclimatizing ; and without some precautions, congestion is liable to result: certain active reme- dies also acquire an increased activity, so that lowering medicines must be used in considerably smaller doses than in Great Britain. The diseases in which the climate of Pau is not suitable may be inferred from the character of those which are ; embracing most disorders where there is a general decline of irritability, or a want of tone in the system, or in apoplectic tendencies depending upon passive congestion.
The position of Pau has been described as very fine by INGLIs and JAMES, less interested persons than a resident physician. Situated in a picturesque and fertile country, its neighbourhood abounds in views, walks, and rides ; clean, airy, and well-built upon a terrace, the city lacks nothing in accommodation and comforts ; but, above all, Pau possesses in its pleasant wooded promenade, called the Parc, a finer view than is commanded from almost any resort for invalids—a vast extent of the Pyrenean range, embracing some of the loftiest peaks; whilst to the spas in its recesses the resident may resort when the heats render Pau unpleasant, from a moderate elevation habitable through all the warm months, to the mountain-height only safe for invalids during the extreme of summer, and deserted by every human being when the season is over.
But climate and scenery are not the only matters to be consi- dered in a fine-weather excursion, much less in a long resi- dence. Even the philosopher desiderates "meat, clothes, and fire " ; to which most persons add a house, and etceteras corre- sponding with their means and habits. According to Dr. TAYLOR, all these things are to be found at Pau.
LODGINGS AND ACCOMMODATIONS AT PAL'.
There are in Pau and its neighbourhood at least one hundred suites of apart- ments, more or less well furnished, independently of small lodgings and the hotels. The average rent of two-thirds of this number may be stated at from 2,500 to 3,500 francs for eight or nine months; the remainder vary from 1,200 to 2,500 francs for the same period. Some of the apartments have accommodation for twelve to fifteen persons, and all the larger ones would contain six or eight peo- ple or more. The houses are furnished with every thing necessary for a family, except linen and plate, both of which may be hired in the town. Those who may prefer living out of town have an opportunity of gratifying their tastes, as there are several comfortable houses to be let, in healthy and airy situations, at distances varying from half a mile to two miles. In the town the houses are for the most part let out in apartments, so that there may be two or more families under the same roof; but in the event of any family requiring more extensive accommodation, or preferring an entire house, it is a matter easy of arrangement. There are lodgings to be had at the hotels, either for families or single per- sons ; by the latter, at a very moderate rate In private houses, and a bachelor may abonner himself in any of the hotels for a small monthly charge. The best hotels are the Hotel de l'Europe, HOtel de France, Mitch de la Poste, and Hotel des Ambassadeurs. At all these hotels they are well acquainted with the habits and tastes of the English, and are very anxious to anticipate their wishes, and consult their comfort in every way. Those who prefer to be served by restaurants, in preference to a cuisine at home, can be gratified at a moderate expense either ci l'Anglaise, or si /a Francaise. The wages of French servants are not exorbitant ; a good cook may be hired for fifteen or twenty-five franca a month; a man servant for thirty to thirty- five francs. Voitures in abundance are to be had by the month, day, or hour, at a moderate rate, say Is. 8d. an hour, and the charge for saddle-horses is 2s. a day. The prices of the substantial articles of living are one-half of what they are in England, and even English luxuries cost very little more than in England.
MEANS OF EDUCATION AT PAIL
It may be proper to make known to those desirous of coming to Pau with children, that good masters are to be found for all the branches of education usually taught. There are experienced teachers of the French and Spanish languages and classics, and professors capable of instructing in the more ad- vanced parts of music, drawing, and other polite accomplishments.
There is also the Royal College, where the classics, mathematics, and phi- losophy are taught. The boys may be boarded at the college, which is under a good system of discipline, great attention being paid to the health of the pupils. Although a Catholic institution, no tampering is permitted or practised with the religious opinions of the pupils, a Protestant clergyman regularly vi- siting the college, and examining the boys who are of that persuasion, while every Sunday they are regularly conducted to the Protestant church.
In public amusements Pau is deficient ; but there are plenty of out-door demands upon attention, with something to be done ia the way of field-sports.
RIDES, WALKS, AND FIELD-SPORTS AT PAU.
The facilities for taking air and exercise at Pau, either in a carriage, on horseback, or on foot, are abundant. Five principal highways, kept in excellent repair, radiate from Pau, and command views, not only of the Pyrenees, bat also of the tamer but still beautiful scenery of the plains. On horseback, rides may be varied to any extent, among the undulating and well-wooded coteaux to the South ; while the pedestrian, if in good health, may make many pil- grimages through green lanes and clustering vineyards ; and although much cannot be said of a held for the sportsman's pursuits, still there is sufficient to act as an incentive to take air and exercise. At the early part of the season, after the corn has been housed, at some five or six miles round Pau, the quail and partridge, particularly the former, may be found in sufficient quantity to afford sport ; and during the winter months, woodcocks, snipes, and wild ducks. at no great distance from Pau. There is another sport of a more exhilarating and manly kind, viz., that of hunting the izzard and the bear in their native fastnesses on the mountains, and searching for the coqdebruyere (the caper- cailzie of Scotland) amidst the black pines on the summits of lofty peaks; but a description of these sports we shall reserve to the sequel, when we come to speak of the Pyrenees themselves. In the valley of Tarbes, twenty-four miles to the East of Pau, a baronet keeps a pack of English hounds, which meet four times a week during the season. The foxes are so abundant that the sportsmen are never without a find; and the runs are described as excellent, the country being well suited for the sport. The worthy baronet, who is him- self passionately fond of the chase, is very polite to his countrymen, who, like himself, possess a genuine love for it.
There is, however, one drawback, at least to genuine English people contemplating a residence, unless they have already friends in the place, who may stimulate them up to the
ANGLO-INDIAN CUSTOM AT PAU.
There is a custom which has prevailed in Pau until it has become law, that the last corner calls upon those who have arrived before him if he a ishes to make himself acquainted with the society. It is so opposite to the rule in England, that the information is not always very palatable to the retiring sen- sitiveness of the English character ; but on reflection the custom will he found to have bad some good reasons for its original adoption and for its present con- tinuance. In the first place, it gives the stranger an absolute advantage over the older resident ; he may, from sickness in his family, wish to remain iso- lated, or he may desire to make the acquaintance of those of congenial tastes, or to modify his circle according to his views. If, again, he desire to enter more generally into society, the path is sufficiently smoothed to make it easy. The custom gives the stranger a breathing-time, in which he can look around him, and choose the people and plan most suitable to the arrangements to which he intends to adhere.
All these things are attractive: but the drawback to Pau's becoming a thronged pleasure-place, like the German Baden, is its remoteness, and its season extending through the colder months, from September till June, when the herd of tourists think of turning homeward. Nor, besides its distance from the great lines of travel, the Rhine and the road to Paris, is it very easy of access. Bordeaux is the place that must first be reached ; and, unless our eyes have deceived us, there is a steamer running, or about to run, direct thither from Southampton : but this seems a nascent speculation of uncertain continuance, and it involves a long sea-voyage. Steamers some- times run from Havre direct to Bordeaux ; but, according to Dr. TAYLOR, the certain route is from Southampton to St. Maio, "thence by a short land journey to Nantes ; from which place there are steamers to Bordeaux on the 1st, 1 1 th, and 22d of each month" : and, once at Bordeaux, there is another land-journey of 125 miles. So that, manage as the tourist may, he has several shifts of conveyance, and, we should imagine a considerable expense, be- fore he arrives at his destination : not, indeed, of sufficient mag- nitude to deter a single man, or a family contemplating a long sojourn, or looking to the extension or preservation of life; but quite enough to keep off the mob of travellers, especially as there is nothing but Pau and the distant Pyrenees; no capital as at Paris, and no succession of attractions, or things fashionably held to be attractive, as at the German Spas and up the Rhine.
Although Dr. TAYLOR'S book On the Curative Influence of the Climate of Pats and the Mineral Waters of the Pyrenees must be considered as emanating from a physician interested in the pros- perity of the place, and therefore not likely to underrate its attrac- tions, yet we see little trace of unfairness or exaggeration in things essential. In his general description of the country, he is borne out by INGLIS, JAMES, and two or three other writers ; and in his account of health and disease there is nothing but what is probable in itself and supported by facts, always assuming the climate to have the specific effect stated. In a literary point of view, the book is a model of its kind : a good deal is done, and little or nothing is overdone. Besides a good account of Pau and its vici- nity, with a full examination of its climate and the classes of disease in which it is likely to be beneficial or the reverse, Dr. TAYLOR'S volume contains a sufficient sketch of the natural features and cha- racter of the different Spas of the Pyrenees, with a description of their mineral waters, and the complaints in wbich they are likely to be used with advantage or injury.