RRPPEL CRAVEN ' S EXCURSIONS.
HE who quits the beaten track is a remarkable person, if the dis- tinction only consists in striking out of the high-road. Notwith- standing the thousands of travellers that annually quit our shores. a true traveller is as rare as ever; for travel requires exertion and privation, which very few men in the present day willingly submit to. As long as they can journey at no greater personal expense than passing from one coach or steam-boat into another, all's right, and on they go. But even those who set out professedly to de- scribe foreign countries, rarely quit the line of hotels and public stages. Whether the country be barbarous or civilized, is of no moment ; and the most classical regions of classic Italy are as little explored as the almost deserts of Spain or Turkey, if they do notlie in the route. Of the numbers who annually journey from Rome to Naples, all follow one post-road across the Pontine Marshes, and then along between the sea and the South-eastern side of the Apennines.
Mr. KEPPEL CRAVEN, as a resident in the country, was too
familiar with this route to use it in an excursion. As a classical antiquarian, and a man familiar with the history of the middle ages, he had historical associations in places that would be merely earth or stone walls to the common herd. He therefore took a
new route on his three excursions—striking into the Apennines instead of skirting them, as well as traversing the country on their Northern or Adriatic side. In the course of his journies lie saw something of Italian provincial life ; he visited the birth-places of HORACE and JUVENAL; the localities (for there are two claims) of the Caudine Forks ; the district of the Samnites ; and many places now neglected, or towns ruined, deserted, or unimportant, but which are associated with the history of the Romans, the Barbarians, the Normans, and the Italian wars of the middle ages. This novelty of subject has not, however, greatly contributed to raise the popular character of Mr. CRAVEN'S book. Unless in case of the curiosity and mystery attending upon a new coun- try, or the instance of a happy talent, which, in its descriptions of scenery and people, makes the whole world kin by touches of nature, travels interest us in proportion to our previous know- ledge or preconceived notions of the places. They please by asso- ciations of ideas; and to the generality the most-frequented places have most associations. " They never heard of Ajax nor of Hector:" allusions to subjects of remote history have no attraction for them; and even the scholar is only interested in those points to which his previous studies have been directed.
Nor do the peculiar qualities of our author tend to lessen these deficiencies. Mr. CRAVEN wants the art of selection. He writes an itinerary, rather than a book of travels; and pours out with much fluency whatever impressions are uppermost, but without troubling himself with the importance or connexion of his matter. The incidents he encountered are few; or if any betel him beyond losing his Way and seeing the departure of an unsuccesful prima donna, he does not describe them. If he met characters, he rarely notes them. He chiefly hashes up the matter of antiqua- rians and historians ; and tells it much in the manner of a fluent cicerone—not without use to persons on the spot, but of little in- terest to strangers. These volumes, however, have points of attraction or value' There is a good account of the attempts of the Roman Em- perors to drain the Focine Lake. The scene of the celebrated CENCI tragedy, gives rise to the introduction of some minute and legal particulars, apparently derived from the judicial process. There is occasionally a good account of some existing town; and some light is thrown on the manners and life of the unsophisti- cated part of the Italian people. But the most interesting point Mr. CRAVEN brings out, is the respectable character, industry, and general information, which distinguish the country gentleman in the provincial towns of Italy. At Aquila, for instance, on the further side of the Apennines, there are many ancient Italian families in easy circumstances, who have not only a Continental reading, and sensible views, but are acquainted with English lite- rature. Manufactures, too, seem slowly but perceptibly springing up, by means of foreigners ; and we are told that the neighbour- hood always prospers by the establishment of factories.
Amongst many descriptions, one of the best is the appearance of the large migratory flocks ; which, in its mixture of sheep and goats, reminds the reader of classical allusions, and in the forms of its shepherds and its leading rams, of the figures of the old Italian landscape-painters.
One of the broad tratturos, or cattle-paths, runs in the same line with the high-road to Aquila; and I was so fortunate as to see it occupied by a very ex- tensive line of flocks, which slowly passel by the catriage fur the space of a mile or more. The word "fortunate," adapted to such a spectacle, may excite a smile in my readers; but I own that I never beheld one of these numerous animal congregations plodding across the flats of Capitanata, or the vallies of Abruzzo, as far as the eye can reach, without experiencing a sensation of a novel and exciting kind, nearly allied to that of enjoyment, but which I shall not attempt to account for. One shepherd heads each division of cattle, of which he has the peculiar care and direction : armed with his crook, he walks some paces in advance of his flock, followed by an old rain termed it mosso; which word, meaning tame or instructed, has undoubtedly a more apposite signification than that of our bell- wether, though he is, as well as ours, furnished with a large deep. toned bell. The sheep march in files of about twelve in each ; and every battalion, if I may so call it, is attended by six or eight dogs, according to its number : these accompany the herd, walking at the head, middle, and rear of each flank. The beauty and docility of these animals, which are usually white, have often been described ; and their demeanour is gentle as long as the objects of their solicitude; are unmolested, but at night they are so savage that it would be dangerous to approach the fold they guard. The gnats, which bear a very small proportion to the sheep, and are in gene- ral black, wind up the array, and evince their superior intelligence by lying down whenever a temporary halt takes place.
The cows and mares travel in separate bodies.
A certain number of these flocks, commonly those belonging to the same pro- prietor. are under the immediate management and inspection of an agent, en- titled forlore, who accompanies them on horseback, armed with a musket, and better clad than the shepherds, who, both in summer and winter, wear the large sheepskin jacket, and are in other respects provided with substantial though homely attire, and good strong shoes. These fattores ate all natives of Abruzzo, an Apulian never having been known to undertake the profession : the former, through particular habits and the repeated experience of years, are looked upon as so peculiarly fitted fur the care required by cattle, and indeed animals of all kinds, that all the helpers in the stables of the capital are natives of these proviuces, or of the adjoining county of Molise. In addition to these qualifications, they are esteemed an abstemious and honest race.
When following the calling of shepherds, and occupied, as i saw them, in the duties of their charge in travelling, their countenances are almost invariably marked by the same expression, which wahines mildness and sagacity with immoveable gravity, and, it is painful to add, a look of deep-seated sadness; the whole caravan, animal as well as human, exhibiting, at least while engaged in one of those tedious peregrinatians, a general appearance of suffering aud de- pression, distinguishable in every individual that composes it. The shepherd that opens tin march, the independent manso, jingling his brazen bell, the flocks th at follow, the dogs that watch over their security, and even the fattore who ilrects the procession, all appear to be plodding through a wearisome existence o: riasaciton: and toil. The extreme slowness lit their p ogress, the downcast expression of every head and eye, and, above all, tt e-indiz along of exhaustion and fative which ate but too perceptible after a jouln.ei of more than a month's duration, may well account fur this impression.
FA SLILY PRACTICES.
in the interior of the mansion where I was so hospitably received, I had art opportunity, which had sometimes previously occurred, of observing the pre- eminent station which a priest always enjoys iu a family of the middling class in this country. It is frequently, I may add generally, the custom for one among a numerous progeny of brothers to adopt the clerical habit and fuuctions. The choice of the individual is supposed to be originally influenced by a natural vocation or a greater aptitude to study and acquirements ; and it usually falls on the second of younger brother, who, having received the portion of learning deemed requi- site to such a profession, enters holy orders; and whether this step leads to any lucrative preferment or imt, be is immediately regarded in quite a distinct and superior light by the rest of the family. It is customary, though not obligatory, for him to give up the possession of his share of the patrimonial property to the remaining members of his house; but on certain conditions, which insole to hint very cousiderable personal advan- tages,--suelt as a monthly allowance proportioned to what he has renounced, a separate table s•-rued in a more costly and delicate manlier, at a different hour flour that of the family meals, and, above all, the best apirtinent or roan in the mansion : iii addition to these privileges, he exacts a show of outward defe- rence from the community and servants, which plates him on a still higher level ; and is iu fact looked up to as their father and sovereign. His superior education enables him to keep the accounts, and is supposed to invest him with the experience requisite to direct all household affairs: all the contracts and financial concerns arc submitted to his inspection ; and while the other brothers go through the drudgery of cultivating the land, and the sisters pelf oat the la- bours of menial servants, he receives the rents or disposes of the produce, de- ciding, according to his sole judgment, ou the most advantageous manner of placing the funds it may bring in. This system is subject to some abuses: still it is but fair to observe, that, in most cases, it is the means of preserving a cotitinuance of ft iendly.union and intercourse in a large foully totally incompatible with our notions of per- sonal independence; and it generally proves the medium of cunsolidating and improving the property as well as the respectability of the whole united kindred.
RIODERN DECAY IN ITALY.
It has often been remarked that one of the characteristic features of Italy, and perhaps more especially of its Southern division, is the appearance of modern decay, if I may so call it, which stamps all the productions of human industry, art, or labour. The villas, the gardens, the palaces, always betray in some of their component parts, and not unfrequently in all, the want of that conserve,• tine inspection which alone can secure mortal edifices front tie ravages of time and climate. Notwithstanding the picturesque effects which are produced by this very neglect, the sensations they create are always tnournful ; associated, though perhaps unconsciously, with the painful ideas attached to premature decay, or arising from the spectacle of untimely dissolution iu a robust frame.
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