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Winter Sports for All
MERE can hardly be a greater contrast of climate—within the compass of a twenty-four hour journey—than that between the climate of our own country in mid-winter and that of the high Alps. It is not only that we get so little sunshine at home, but that our sunshine has most of its power filtered away in trying to penetrate the dense layer of moist and smoke-laden air (" atmospheric slime " it has been aptly called) that covers every town and much of the country at home.
But in the Alps, the visitor is above this smoke-screen, so that the sun strikes with unimpeded power whilst the moun- tains form a sheltering screen that generally keeps off all cold winds. And so dry is the air that during a hard frost the hot sun does not melt the snow ; the snow merely evaporates, so that, while the frost lasts, there is no messy slush on the ground. But life at the Winter Sports resorts is altering. It is developing in two directions. While it tends every year to become more elaborate and luxurious in the great hotels at fashionable centres, it is also spreading very widely to small and inexpensive " Pensions " in many places, so that every type of hotel from the monster " Palace " to the modest Pen- sion is now available.
The first point to consider is altitude. Those who have but a short time to spare are advised to choose a place at a height of not less than 4,000 feet, since a thaw at that height is unlikely to last long. During a good season, however, excellent sport may be had at the 3,000 feet resorts. Broadly speaking, the hotels may be divided into three classes : (i) The de luxe hotels, (2) those of moderate size, which are nevertheless, most comfortable, and (8) the small " Pension " where the accommodation, though good, is quite simple, and the charges really small.
The de lure hotels are as sumptuous as any in Europe. They provide dances every night as well as frequent cinema shows, and other entertainments. Rates are from about £7 a week, but, of course, front rooms and suites cost much more. Such are the " Palace " at Villars (from £9 16s. a week) and the
" Muveran," with its 200 bedrooms—one of the sunniest spots in Switzerland—the Palace at Caux, the Palace at Wengen, and the " Winter Palace " at Gstaad.
Many people, however, would be glad to take a winter holiday in the mountains if they could find a place where they could be out all day walking, skating, or ski-ing, and the return to a comfortable hotel where they would not be expected to pay for luxuries they do not really want. There certainly are such places, but they do not advertise much. St. Cergue in the Jura is one of these. Its height is about 3,000 feet, the rates are from £2 10s. a week (Hotel Auberson) and the journey from England is short. The following hotels are all good, and are mostly much quieter than the very large ones. At Villars : The Hotel Chalet Anglais (run by English Univers- ity and Public School men), "Bellevue," " Victoria," " Hotel Pension Bristol," "Pension de la Dent du Midi," " Villa Marie-Louise " (this last under English management) ; at Morgins, the " Grand " ; at Diablerets, the "Grand" ; at Chamonix, the " Hotel des Etmngers." Chesieres, close to Villars, is less expensive than its more famous neighbour (Hotels : " Chamossaire," and " Belvedere "). Rooms at any of these can be reserved in advance at the offices of any of the recognized agents such as Thos. Cook and Son, Ltd., or " Alpine Sports "Ltd.; or a private arrangement can he made with the chosen hotel.
The above suggestions all refer to hotels which, however moderate their charges, arc all in the full stream of Winter Sports life. There are, however, places off the beaten track, where for a charge of 8 francs a day (£2 55. a week) good food and well-heated rooms may be had. There may or may not be a " made " rink, but there will always be plenty of ski-ing as well as tobogganing. There will be no jazz-band, and evening clothes are not needed. From personal experience, I suggest two such places. Le St'pey, near Aigle (Hotels : " Mont d'Or," and " du Cerf "). There are many good excur- sions in different directions from this place. Corbeyrier, in the next valley, has fewer excursions, but is a perfect sun-trap (Pension : " Sondanelle"). Places such as these supply the cheapest sort of Winter Sports holiday, and I think the most restful. Indeed, I could wish myself there now, as the traffic rumbles past my house and slmkes the room in which I write.
ATIIOLE MURRAY.
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