The Modern Home
The Kitchen
PENS more musical than mine—and certainly than my typewriter—have sung the praises of the kitchen, that laboratory which ministers to our only sense that does not stale with .age. Nevertheless, there are some changes to be recorded since the days of Brillat Savarin, even of " Wyvern." Gone are the numerous scullions ; the kitchen maids are sadly minished ; and the fact that modern gastronomic fashions call for less both in quantity and complexity does little to abate the need for greater efficiency in our kitchens. We have come to expect less of our- maids—and they to expect us to expect less of them. While that rare and lovely artist, the cook who takes joy in her work, will continue to produce superb results amid incredible inconvenience— just as she did when an unglazed earthen pot was the nearest approach to a " Pyrex " casserole—we must not allow ourselves to doubt that the best results are to be extracted from more ordinary specimens by surrounding them with every modern convenience.
Some of the old traditions die hard. The need of space, for instance. When a cook could send a kitchenmaid here to fetch this and another there to fetch that, there was quite a lot to be said- for a vast kitchen—the more so since the wasteful fires and ranges of those times poured much of their heat and fumes into the room. With the reduced staffs of to-day unnecessary space means unnecessary running about and, quite probably, colder food. The ventilation problem, less serious with the modern range or cooker, can be met more simply than by the provision of vast cubic space. It is, nevertheless, one of the first points to be considered in the design of a kitchen. Apart from the humanitarian aspect, no cook: can be expected to give of her best if the atmosphere in which she lives is impaired by fumes of com- bustion ; nor can she keep that delicacy of palate which her work should require if the odours of cooking past and present hang about her nostrils. I should like to see every kitchen equipped with a sheet-metal hood over the range or cooker to draw off the smells of cooking A few weeks ago I was discussing with an, engaged couple the plans of an old house which they were about to modernize. In addition to an unnecessarily large kitchen there were several fair-sized pantries. It had not occurred to them that one of these was quite large enough, if properly equipped, to be the kitchen. It was nearer to the dining room and larder ; and the big room could then be divided, half to be used as a servants' hall, and the other half to form a much needed cloak room. This has now been done ; and the result is entirely satisfactory.
The new kitchen contains an anthracite range, a vitreous- enamelled, steel-topped table and a kitchen cabinet. These last are great savers of space and steps. They can be obtained in sizes to suit cottage or castle, and in any finish from plain wood to cellulose enamel with chromium-plated fittings. The cheapest are almost absurdly inexpensive, and all are efficiently arranged and equipped. They enable the cook to have within arm's length all her cooking utensils and all stores other than the quickly perishable, which are, of course, in the larder. Most models provide her with an enamelled table top to work on, either in the form of a flap to let down or a shelf to pull out ; and the glass containers, of different sizes, show her at a glance which stores are running low. Where there is already an over-large kitchen in commission, it is often possible to form a " cooking recess " by placing one of these cabinets flanking but at right angles to the range, with a table in the corresponding position opposite. Such an arrangement allows the rest of the kitchen to be made into a more pleasant room for the maids' use ; and if permanent partitions of wood and glass be extended to the ceiling and care taken to ensure ventilation, the result can be almost as good as the small separate kitchen described.
It is most desirable that every part of a kitchen shall be easily and completely washable. This means not only that the surfaces should be finished with some appropriate material, but also that angles, ledges and mouldings should be reduced to a minimum. Perhaps the perfect floor covering is one
of the several preparations which can be put on in a plastic state, and set to a consistency rather harder than rubber. These are completely non-absorbent, and can be swept up the base of the walls for a few inches, thus allowing every scrap of dirt to be easily dislodged by a mop. As they are also impervious to air it is important, when having them laid on a wooden floor, to see that there is really good ven- tilation underneath ; otherwise a very few years will see the wood rotten. Walls should be rounded off into the ceiling and at all corners. They may be tiled or panelled with glass or marble-like compositions such as " Nitalinc " ; or they may be enamelled. They may be painted and varnished, or covered with " Decorene," a non-cracking American cloth. But if they are to be papered, whether varnished or not, let them be varnished again after papering to seal the joins. The ceiling should be as washable as the walls. A kitchen should suggest efficiency and utter cleanliness ; and the colour I would recommend, therefore, is white—on no account that depressing tint " stone-colour, because it is so serviceable." The best service a kitchen wall can give is to show when it is dirty. Relief will be afforded, of course, by curtains, floor and perhaps by a line round the walls ; but let white—typical as much of sterility as of virginity-- be the prevailing note.
There can be little doubt, I suppose, that electricity is the cooking agent of the future ; and even now, in certain localities and in blocks of flats enjoying a special rate, its use may be economical. But unless it can be bought for as little as halfpenny a unit, I have no doubt that other methods are cheaper—even allowing for problematical dirt and extra trouble. For grilling and baking it can compare in price with gas or coal ; but not for boiling and those many processes carried out on the top of a range. Coke, coal and anthracite, all have their advantages under various conditions ; and there are many efficient appliances using each. If gas be selected, choose a cooker that has a warm chamber for plates heated by the out-going fumes. An astonishing saving in gas is effected by types which can be lighted by pushing a button. With these, the cook is not tempted to leave a ring burning until she wants it again. I should like to urge our manufacturers to study the designs of continental stoves and cookers, which are far ahead of us in almost every case. Some of their latest patterns in forged steel and vitreous enamels make ours look positively Heath-Robinsonian. A word should be said for oil cookers—which are infinitely more convenient and efficient than is generally believed in this country, though they find wide use in America. Cheap to buy, they are very economical in use. The modern blue- flame type (I am not referring to pressure stoves, such as the Primus, which are good for boiling a kettle in a hurry, but not for serious cooking) does not smell and is quite safe.
Those who saw the interesting exhibition of Modern Kitchen Equipment at Heals recently will have noticed the beautiful stainless steel pans. At present these are more than twice the price of really good aluminium—which seems to me more than their extra durability and slightly greater ease of cleaning is worth. Aluminium is second only to tinned copper in heat-transmitting qualities ; provided it is washed with special soap and not with soda it is easily cleaned and delightful to look at—at the moment I see nothing to recommend in its place. In glass cooking-ware, " Pyrex " has now been joined by " Orluk " in many excellent designs. Only those who have used this ware can realize how good it is for cooking, how well it looks on the table, and how incredibly easy it is to clean even after the worst " boil-over." The price is now reasonably low. It is good to be able to welcome an English fire-proof earthenware—up to now obtainable only from France. This is made (by Joseph Bourne and Son, Ltd., of Denby, Derbyshire) in the usual brown or green glazes and also in an attractive " Cottage Blue." The range is very comprehensive and includes a double-sided stock pot, " The Blue Flame Casserole," designed to give economical results on a gas cooker.
G. M. BousrmaErt.
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