TASTE AND FASHION FROM THE FRENCH REVOLUTION UNTIL TODAY By
James Laver
Mr. Laver succeeds in handling the esoteric subject of costume with pro- fundity and without pedantry : would that other museum officials could follow his example. This short and admirable survey (Harrap, 12s. 6d.) comprises a large number of illustrations, an almost year-by-year account of the changes of the last century and a quarter, and a separate detailed consideration of in- dividual items of costume. It is most interestingly done, without any of those far-retched theories of social, economic, and psychological causation which are apt to encumber the 'mote pretentious treaties on the same subject. Male costume is a confused medley of utilitarian devices with a subsidiary aim of social camouflage. But women's dress is governed by one consideration only; and Mr. Laver states it boldly. It is the necessity of always exposing or emphasising something new and still seductive, while keeping in modest -reserve those other -treasures which have lately been exposed until their charm has faded and cannot be re-exposed until they have regained their mystery. A low view, perhaps, and hateful to the self-sufficient feminist : but it was never
better understood than in the nineteent,L century, when woman had to fascinai or starve. Not even Mr. Laver chi explain what attraction there was in t! fashions of the last decade : but h., demonstrates effectively that womd.. was never so irresistible as when sh, submitted herself to the corset and th crinoline.
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