27 DECEMBER 1935, Page 16

A Country Dish

Finally, what are wigs ? Dictionaries do not help, Miss White says nothing, and I confess ignorance. Ent Miss Jane Gamer. provides the following recipe in a country MS. cookery book of 1854; "Wigs for breakfast : one pound of flour, rub in 2 oz. of butter, 1 I oz. of sifted sugar, the yolks of 4 eggs well beaten, one spoonful. of yeast beaten up with sour skimmed milk just warmed ; mix all together and let it stand before the fire an hour to rise -then make it into wigs' and let it stand half an hour on the tins before they are put into the oven—half an hour will bake them, This will suffice for a party of five with moderate appetites—but if great gormandizers a larger quantity will be necessary."

I commend the dish to those who 'rise early, travel far, and deplore the current fashion of which a broth of cornflakes and' • thimble measure of lemon juice is called a breakfast.

II. K BATES.