29 MARCH 1986, Page 23

Victor of the Gay Hussar

Sir: A footnote to your excellent profile of Victor Sassie (15 March). When he opened the Gay Hussar in 1953 I was living and working round the corner, in Soho Square. I must have been one of his first customers, and I quickly appreciated his niceness and the excellence of his food. I took many of my authors to appreciate both.

More than 20 years later, when I had long retired to this northern fastness, my son Duff lunched at the Gay Hussar. Directly Victor heard his name he asked whether he was my son. Learning that he was, Victor gave him a bottle of wine as a present for me. I have never received a more unexpected or a more charming gift. I wrote to Victor to thank him, but I am now able to repeat my gratitude in public. He is a delightful man.

Rupert Hart-Davis

Marske-in-Swaledale, Richmond, North Yorkshire