Sparrow grass and garlic
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THERE seems to be an enormous amount of asparagus in the markets this year, of every size and very reasonably priced for once. I particularly like the thin little ones called sprue. they have a delicious flavour and seem to be the cheapest: large bundles for 90 pence. Whatever size you choose to buy I think the best way of cooking them is to steam them, unless you have one of those grand asparagus kettles which cook them upright. I have a large Aga steamer which is admirable for the" job, but a colander over a well-fitting saucepan should do as well. Make sure the stalks are grit-free under a running tap, but don't soak. Nothing is better than just eating asparagus in your fingers, having dipped them into whichever sauce you prefer; in Rome I have had them served with lightly fried eggs sprinkled with parmesan, you dip into the yolks leaving a disgusting debris of the whites. However if you have a surfeit of asparagus (happy thought) you could make: Asparagus mousse 1 bunch of asparagus 1/2. pint of made-up aspic 4 hard-boiled eggs 1/4 pint of thick cream salt and pepper
Clean the asparagus, cut off the coarse part of the stalk and steam until tender. Drain off any excess water, then mash or liquidise them. Chop the boiled eggs fairly finely, whip the cream to thicken enough to leave a trail. Combine all the ingredients folding the cream in last, season with ground salt and pepper and pour into a suitable mould. Chill until set. Turn out and serve with more asparagus surround- ing it, and maybe a light mayonnaise to dip into.
If you prefer something hot you could indulge in:
Asparagus souffle
1 bunch of asparagus 3 oz butter 3 dessertspoons of plain flour 8 fluid oz milk 4 spring onions 1 clove, 1 bay leaf 3 large eggs 3 dessertspoons freshly grated parmesan cheese salt, pepper, paprika and nutmeg
Chop the spring onions and place in a small saucepan with the milk, the clove and
the bay leaf. Bring to the boil, take off the heat, leave to steep. Wash and trim the asparagus, leaving about five inches of the tender tips, steam until just tender, draw well and place in the bottom of a well- buttered soufflé dish. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, stirring until quite smooth but not browning. Add the strained milk little by little, stirring the while until all is amalgamated and at the boil. Remove from the heat to cool some- what. Separate the eggs. Beat the yolks with a little salt and fresh-ground pepper, a pinch of paprika, a scrape of nutmeg and the parmesan cheese. Mix into the milk sauce. Beat the egg whites stiffly then fold them into the mixture with loving care. Pour over the asparagus. Place the dish 10 the middle of a pre-heated oven at Gas 7, F 425°, C 218° for 30 to 35 minutes.
The other great treat that has just appeared in the market is the succulent fresh garlic with its great cloves bursting from tender green and purple surrounds. I am totally addicted to it. Colin Spencer who also worships at the shrine of the 'sacred herb' has a stunning recipe for roasted garlic. Peel the cloves (he goes up to 200 for a family affair — wow!), toss 10 olive oil, season with salt and pepper, place in a covered earthenware dish in a prehe- ated oven at medium heat for half an hour. Serve sprinkled with parsley. These, eaten with a simple bit of steak, lamb or chicken are stupendous and not at all strong.
Finally a dish of extreme simplicity:
Spaghetti with oil and garlic
11/2 lbs of spaghetti (enough for six) 6 whole cloves of garlic 6 tablespoons of the best olive oil black pepper 2 tablespoons of chopped parsley
Peel the cloves of garlic and fry them gently in the olive oil until golden yellow. Take the cloves out of the pan and throw them away. (This is the correct thing to do but I often leave them to eat.) Keep the oil boiling and pour sizzling over the prepared spaghetti. This sauce should be prepared at the last moment when the pasta is nearly ready. As soon as the spaghetti are cooked, drain them not too dry and grind lots of black pepper over them then, add the boiling oil and sprinkle with the pars- ley. Eat at once without cheese.
Jennifer Paterson
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