TRAVELLING LIFE CAROL WRIGHT
Challenge is a distinct element in taking a Scottish holiday. Unless you go for the two five-star baronial mansion hotels: Glen- eagles and Turnberry, accommodation is likely to be practical rather than pam- pering. Part of the 'escape' theme promoted by the Highlands and Islands Tourist Board is a certain sloughing-off of sophistication. The Hebrides have the captivation of palamino sands and gentle breasted hills (like the Paps of Jura). Here paucity of ac- commodation trims visitors and preserves peace.
Tourism indicates a spoliation of nature in pursuit of cash. Scotland is treading this path as warily as possible although the much publicised centre at Aviemore—welcome and courageous in tourist terms—must accelerate this sad but necessary process. A wide selec- tion of round-the-year sports amenities, both indoor and outdoor, is provided along with clothes and equipment hire services; a prac- tical move to prevent rain stopping all play and offering opportunities to try out sports without investment in equipment. A heated, overchlorinated swimming pool, dry ski slope, curling and skating rink, cinema, bars, restaurants and shops are boredom cushions for days when mists blot out the raw scenery that is the essence of a Highland holiday.
The centre has tried to be all things to all budgets—a doubtful appeal to those who want the complete ambience that high prices are supposed to provide. Accommodation ranges from four-bunk chalet rooms, through simple family rooms at the of the Strathspey (£3.871 a night), though I Badenoch (£2.25 a night) to four-star grading rate their dining-room service low. Trust Houses are building a hotel in the centre.
On the centre's fringes are other hotels such as the four-star Colyumbridge which enable the Aviemore facilities to be used without staying right within its concrete con- fines. A personal choice would be the High Range Motor Hotel (f3.85 per night including dinner). Comfortable chalet-style room units are scattered among birch trees under the lee of a protective grey rock moun- tain. To the southeast, views stretch away across the Spey valley towards the Cairngorm mountains. The High Range has a small but pleasant dinner restaurant and The Tavern, a lunchtime pine chalet in the grounds where cheerful girls serve superb omelettes.
While the Aviemore centre's concept is worthy of imitation in other British holiday areas particularly in the remoter parts of Scotland and her islands to bring needed tourism and employment, a less stark architectural impression would be more at- tractive. The complex, linked by its grey unsoftened flagged paths will never blend with the landscape. The Strathspey Hotel is like a baby grain elevator, slab-sided; the cheese wedges of other buildings are hard against the softness of the Spey valley.
The Highlands and Islands development board is working hard not only to preserve scenery and wildlife and enable these to be appreciated on nature trails, but also to con- serve history and culture. A unique in- formation centre opened at Carrbridge last year concentrates on providing historical material for visitors. This, at its more melancholy, can be seen at Culloden Moor, five miles east of Inverness. At the threshold of this sudden open sweep of grassland, lurk- ing behind thick forests, is a National Trust of Scotland well-designed information centre and small museum in Leanach Cottage, Prince Charles's battle headquarters. As well as the Well of the Dead and. Graves of the Clans, Culloden field contains Bronze Age standing stones. Carrbridge, incidentally, was one of the first Scootish skiing villages with Austrian ski expert Karl Fuchs pro- viding much of the impulse to create serious ski schools Mr Fuchs now runs the Struan House hotel in Carrbridge and in summer takes visitors on walking expeditions.
Scottish tourist literature has much sensi- ble information; too rare amid the purple acres of most tourist promotion material. An excellent publication from the Scottish Tourist Board is 'Scottish Sports Holidays' which describes a strong point of Scottish tourism: the fine choice of resort hotels which specialise in providing sports facilities and instruction. The Escape to the Islands and Highlands Book contains concise gazet- teer information and useful touring maps.
A car is essential to get the maximum en- joyment from Scotland. Taking your own, British Rail's Motorail services seem to have inklings of helpfulness less evident elsewhere.
Each carload of passengers has a com- partment to itself, a privacy point valuable for family travel. British Rail has at last acknowledged the needs and existence of children on long-distance services, providing free meals for the under-threes, and half- price meals for those aged three to ten years. On the night trains, where 'room service' of light refreshments is available from the car attendants, arrival at Perth from London is in time for the best meal of the Scottish day: breakfast taken at the Station Hotel, Perth, a bastion of old-fashioned splendour from the days of steam pride and hearty catering.
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