7 OCTOBER 1916, Page 12

GEORGE MEREDITH ON GERMAN COOKERY. [To THE EDITOR OP THE

" SPECTATOR."] STR,—I am re-reading Meredith's Sandra Belloni, and at the close of chap. xliii. find the following (the italicized word is the author's) :— " Dine as well as you can while you are in England. German cookery is an education for the sentiment of hogs. The play of sour and sweet, and crowning of the whole with fat, shows a people determined to go down in civilization, and try the business backwards."—I am, Sir, &e., BEATRICE I. H. JACKSON. Strontian, Elmdon Road, Acock's Green, Birmingham.