Travel
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The Eastern and Central Highlands
STIRLING CASTLE was the favoured residence of many Scottish kings, for whoever held it commanded the solitary gateway to the Highlands. Time has hardly changed the strategical importance of Stirling, and even to the motorist of to-day it remains a good starting point for a tour of Scotland. In a tour of the Eastern and Central Highlands we leave Stirling by the main road to the North towards Dunblane over the Bridge of Allan, turning sharply to the right by the Stirling Arms Inn and then to the left by a hairpin climb. From here we cut through Strath Allan towards Greenloaning in the valley of Allan Water. If we keep to the left we reach Crieff, nine miles away from Gleneagles golf course.
It would be hard to discover a better centre than Crieff for this part of Scotland ; there are roads diverging to each point of the compass, and within easy reach are many of the most attractive places in Perthshire. But if we are to cover 500 miles in a reasonable period of time we cannot tarry. The Perth road takes us to the fork" at Gilmerton, and the left branch thrusts us without warning into rugged mountain country. We must now be prepared to tackle stiffish climbs and steepish descents on our way through Sma Glen and Strath Bran to Dunkeld. Yesterday parts- of this road were used as a test hill, but to-day it presents no difficulty. Passing Amirlree Inn, we are shortly in Milton village, where we must bear to the right. Crossing the River. Tay, we skirt its banks for eight miles to Ballinluig and then follow its tributary, the Tu.mmel, to Pitlochry. In the centre of this most popular of Highland resorts we turn right and climb sharply over more mountainous regions, having Ben Vrackie (2,757 feet) on our left. The road now makes a semi-circular path in and out of hills, until we arrive at Kirkmichael village. Through it we can make a short cut to the " royal " route, and on meeting this road, we turn left by the Devil's Elbow to Braemar.
From the top of the Devil's Elbow there is a magnificent Highland view. Eventually, more climbing brings us to Braemar in the heart of the Grampians and so along the delightful North Deeside Road by Balmoral Castle and Ballater to Dinnet cross-roads. At this point we bear left and, taking care not to lose our way, we come to Rhynie, and then Huntly on the Inverness road. The latter offers no great attractions other than the seaside resorts which it connects, and if we see Spey Bay, Findhom Bay (by Fortes), and then Nairn, we shall have chosen the best of this section of the coast. Our route can be shortened, if necessary, by using the straight main road connecting Nairn with Grantown-on-Spey. In any case we touch the lovely Spey Valley at Grasitown and wend our way through it as we pass Nethybridge and Boat of Garten before reaching Aviemore. The last-named resort has achieved popularity through its superb situation overlooking the majestic Cairn- gorm mountains. It is also conveniently placed on the main Perth-Inverness road, a highway which has latterly been re-made and which intersects Prince Charlie's country.
On our way. South we pass Kingussie, Newtonmore, Dalwhinnie, Blair Atholl, and the Pass of Killiecrankie. Beyond this is Pitlochry, but instead of returning there we follow the river 'rurnmel to Loch Tummel and Loch Rannoch. This is often said to be one of the prettiest valleys in Scotland, for it runs through densely-wooded country and looks over the river (or loch) at every turn. The descent to Kinloeh Rannoch is steep and needs great care, but it is worth making in order that we should be able to tour the loch on both sides. After this we have either to retrace our steps to Tummel Bridge and turn right for Loch Tay or to cross the mountains and meet the same road near White Bridge. On a fine day the latter is well worth doing. From the junction at White Bridge, it is only a short way to the river Tay. Close by are the village of Kenmore and Taymouth Castle, which adjoins it. Our route then continues alongside Loch Tay for the whole of its glorious length to Killin and so by Glen Ogle to the head of Loch Earn, the Pass of Leny and the Trossachs.
In addition to our route, a run along the bank of Loch Earn as far as St. Fillans is to be recommended. Aberfoyle is a noted centre for the Trossachs, from which it is easy to reach Glasgow and the South, or one can return to Stirling by Men- teith Loch and Thornhill. As a complete tour the route has been chosen with a two-fold purpose—to give motoring comfort and. to offer a wide variety of Scottish scenery. It could well Occupy a week or more, as a host of interesting explorations are possible from many of the places visited. C. H. G. N.
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